Today was going to be a very busy day. I was leaving Tokyo and travelling to the north Island of Hokkaido. Still on unusual time I woke 4am and left the capsule hotel by 7am which wasnt that comfortable compared to others and was full of cigarette smoke.

First I had to take a local Yamonote line train down two stops from Ueno to Tokyo station. My train to Hokkaido was at 8.40 so I tried to see if I could switch to an earlier train but no window seats were available so I had to wait for my train.

It was an interesting process watching the cleaning crew go thru and then bow as the leave the platform. As the rains had cleared today I could feel the early morning humidity.

Using my JR pass I would be travelling in the Green Car which is First Class. As I was to find I would have the carriage mostly to myself compared with crowded economy cars.

As we pulled out the dense concrete high rise sprawl tended to go on forever.

Exploring the train there was a VIP class which is higher than my Green Car ticket and I wasnt allowed in. Meanwhile economy was packed.

It took about 3 hours to leave the mainland after which we passed thru tunnels to Hokkaido Island. At Shin-Hakodate the train ends and you have to transfer to a local train to reach Hakodate town centre.

Highly unusual for Japan the train was delayed by more than an hour. A local train eventually came after 40 minutes waiting. Everyone crowded in and I sat next to someone with body odour. As the train waited my train pulled beside so I switched over to my empty Green Car carriage.

On arrival at Hakodate the temperature had dropped and it was more cool and breezy like in England or Norway. There was a fish market south of the station reminding me of the many seafood markets in nearby Korea. There were also red brick warehouses which if I had more time would have been nice to explore.

It was already past 2pm and I just had today to explore. First I made my way to my hotel in the old town so I could drop my bags. The owner was helpful giving me tram information to get to Goryokaku Tower later.

Nearby was the Old British Consulate. Tickets to each of four sites was 300Y each, or you could get a double ticket to two sites for 500Y, or all four for 850Y. I only wanted to goto the Consulate and Public Hall so got the combo ticket for 500Y ($6.25).

Again in today's political climate we see how the British transplanted their culture, customs, and way of life in another country rather than 'integrate' and 'assimilate' into the local culture!

It was interesting to see how the history of how European influence had gained a foothold on this remote northern island.

Further up towards the base of Mount Hakodate was the Public Hall. This had similar period furnishing, fireplaces, and an orchestra concert taking place.

Locals were also taking the opportunity to dress up in costume and have their photos taken.

Nearby was the Russian Orthodox Church, the single site that had intrigued me the most since I first learnt of it creating a desire to come to Hakodate. We were getting into Russian territory and the influence is evident from when past borders shifted.

There were also other European churches but now things were closing after 4pm. There was a big Temple hall but it had also closed for today.

Making the most of what was left of daylight I took the tram out to Goryokaku Tower.

Like several other cities I'd visited in Japan, Hakodate has vintage tram lines still in use today. Tickets were confusing. You dont pay the driver but instead take a ticket as you enter. It has a number written on it and the further fare zones you pass thru your fare is calculated to pay the driver when exiting.

Fare was about 240Y ($3). Goryokaku Tower is a short walk from the tram line. Due to time and the starting sunset the best option was to take the elevator straight up the tower rather then try to walk around the fort.

The ticket was 850Y ($10.50) and had a 360 degree view of the fort, city, ocean, airport, and Mt Hakodate. It was also a prelude to my Sky View Hotel in Sapporo tomorrow night.

The ticket brochure states... The construction of Goryokaku Fort dates back to 1853 when a US fleet arrived at a Japanese port referred to as the 'arrival of the black ships'. demanding that Japan open its doors to the rest of the world. Succumbing to the threat of force from the enormous 'black ships' the shogunate concluded the Treaty of Peace and Amity between the US and opened the ports to international trade... wow we were never told that in western history!!!

The fort was built in European star design as a citadel but I dont see the point this far inland? As the sun was setting after another long exhaustive day I took the tram back to try to get a good nights sleep.

Hakodate turns out had more to see and in retrospect I needed a full day rather than taking the 5 hour morning journey from Tokyo. The sun sets early in this northern island so you have to leave yourself more daylight hours. I didnt even take the cable car up Mt Hakodate which is supposed to be the most popular thing to do here.