CYCLONE AND FLOODING
 The cyclone season had been fairly uneventful when at 9am on Wednesday 13th Feb a small tropical low off the West Kimberly coast was named as Nicholas a CAT 1 tropical cyclone. No problem mate, its a baby and a long way away. Even when at 6am on the 14th Feb, it intensified to a CAT 2 little heed was paid.

However at midday on 16th Feb, off Port Hedland, Nicholas again intensified to a CAT 3 severe tropical cyclone. Now it was getting some attention here in Coral Bay, with FESA monitoring being more frequent, but not too much to worry about. FESA authorities did concede that Nicholas had proven itself to be rather unpredictable and Coral Bay needed to go on alert, although it was still expected to cross before reaching us.   

By Monday the 18th Nicholas was still progressing down the coast and looking fairly ominous, however it was still expected to turn into the gulf. Coral Bay was now beginning to prepare with windows being taped up and any loose items being lashed down. Also at this time emergency workers attempted to move numerous illegal campers into the Parks, where they would receive updates and be accounted for, or out of the danger area. Stupidly many simply moved elsewhere, causing emergency workers an unnecessary headache. Also the big task of "jinkering" all the tour/fishing boats out of the bay into safe storage, some opted to sail to safer water to the South. We went looking for Bayview's cyclone plan only to discover it never existed. The town had a plan which we secured a copy of but we found that it was fairly brief and provided little guidance. That evening the locals who by now had been toying with cyclone talk for six days decided on a volley ball game on the beach, the tide was so high there nearly was not enough sand for the court. The atmosphere was heavy and silent, dripping with expectation.

Tuesday morning the 19th revealed that while Nicholas was weakening now back to a CAT 2, it was still on a path that could lead it to Coral Bay, we at Bayview had already ceased taking new guests and suggesting to any guests remaining, particularly campers they should consider moving South to Carnarvon. Many had over the last two days, voluntarily packed and left.  Several town meetings were held to digest the reports coming in from FESA and two police officers from Carnarvon had arrived to coordinate any actions required. Eventually at the second meeting the decision was made to evacuate as many non essential people from Coral Bay as possible by bus to Carnarvon where an official evacuation centre had been set up. We drew up a list of Management/FESA personnel we wanted to stay and requested all other staff to evacuate - "big brother" staff quarters were closed. At 6pm Nicholas was only 45 km west of Exmouth and still CAT 2. All bars were closed and all remaining in town were warned that the town was to be free of alcohol consumption.

The wind at this stage was building and while not scary as such, nevertheless quite impressive. There was little point in us staying up, given FESA control were monitoring the blow and given we were on code red making it unlawful to leave a building, decided instead to sleep to be fresh if required should the situation worsen. At sometime between midnight and 4pm Nicholas passed Coral Bay at about 30km west and eventually crossed the coast 60 km south of Coral Bay at 10am Wed Feb 20th as a CAT 1 and quickly deteriorated into a rain bearing depression.

A drive around early Wed morning with our camera revealed a considerable presence of wind, and some damage, the most severe being the roof of the "big brother" staff quarters being slammed into the court yard, proving evacuation was a sound decision.

Considerable rain had fallen throughout the area which resulted in land locked Lake Macleod filling, the result of this was that the next lot of rain had no escape causing the Lyndon River to flood the Minilya road and Barribiddy creek the North West Highway. Coral Bay was completely cut off for about a week until the creeks at Exmouth and on Burkett road subsided giving access to the North and Barribiddy also subsided allowing traffic to flow south and come the long way to Coral Bay. Minilya road was about three weeks before it could open.

Footnote: We have since developed a very comprehensive emergency cyclone plan for Bayview.

 

THOUGHTS ON ILLEGAL CAMPING

What are they thinking - or not? We know first hand that all travellers like to save a buck - but not in the process being blatantly illegal and trashing the environment they are visiting.
 
 Coral Bay is a real gem. The authorities and most of the locals are trying to present this little community in the best light for visitors and preserve it for the future.

Mostly when we are travelling we find our fellow travellers are very aware of not abusing the privilege and try to minimize the impact on the environment or culture where they are guests. Unfortunately in our time here we have almost been brought to tears of anger, at some of the antics. Check out the photo's which are just a selection of many. Fires on the beach are so irresponsible and many have bottles thrown in them which break and usually the idiots lighting the fires cover, or partially cover, the fire with sand when they leave. This produces such a dangerous cocktail for barefooted beach goers - broken glass and hot coals - imagine what it does to the hands of a little kid digging in the sand? Then the final insult - the tide comes in and (if conscientious Coral Bay residents have not cleaned up) drags the lot out into our pristine Coral Reef.

Check out the pics of travellers totally ignoring the signs and again, these are just a sample.

Then we encounter, quite often, guests who have done the right thing by registering in a park, but during their stay they have collected a heap of shells, it is not permitted to remove shells from any beach, let alone inside a marine park, yet when they drive off, they leave the shells on site. It simply defies logic.

Can anyone fill us in on why smokers believe butts look good on the ground? Even our smoker friends here are horrified by the butt dropping attitude. The strange thing is these same people are coming here to admire our wildlife (and pristine environment) and yet killing off our reptiles, birds and fish every time one mistakes these toxic bombshells as food. Not to mention the illegal camping scaring off the wildlife and destroying habitat.

Council have now appointed a part time Ranger and erected warning signs and while clearly the situation has improved, there is still a problem. We would also like to ask fellow travellers to actively encourage others to leave a location they have enjoyed, in a better condition than when they arrived, to enhance the experience for themselves and those to follow. 

DON'T DRIVE AT NIGHT IN THE OUTBACK!

Katherine (KAT for short) is coming up to Coral Bay to work over her university break. As the greyhound does not always operate the commuter bus from Minilya Roadhouse to Coral Bay we have offered to pick KAT up in Minilya more 100 clicks away. Only a little snare in the plan - the greyhound arrives in Minilya at around 12.30 am. 

Undaunted I (Avan) set off and all goes well until about 10 km from Minilya, it is pitch black and I'm just entering a flood way dip when I realize a florescent black and white grid marker which was clearly visible in the headlight has disappeared, the penny drops that something large is on the road. My boot frantically pumps the brake, then thump!!! As the troopy crunches to a rapid halt, I feel more than see the herd of cattle about the vehicle.

I finally prise my hands from the steering wheel and come to terms that sitting staring is not helping the situation. I climb stiffly out of the cab and instantly realize I've hit at least one cow full on, the vehicle front is crushed, the bull bar is twisted obscenely, the bonnet will not move and the left wheel is jammed - b***** I am in strife. Grabbing the hammer I manage to gain some space for the wheel. As I can not access the engine I conclude with little option to attempt a start - the troopy fires - a quick listen confirms the fan is free. The gauges suggest no radiator or battery damage - into gear and move off slowly. Not bad - can not turn corners without violent scraping but a wide arc is doable. No chance to get the headlights onto the cattle, will check on the return. I head for Manilya.

While waiting a short time for the bus I again tackle a bit of panel beating and gain a little more turning circle. KAT arrives and I load her luggage into the rear, then being a gentleman try to open her passenger door - how embarrassing, will not budge so have to send KAT in via the drivers side door.

On the way back we can now confirm in the remaining headlight that there is a dead cow and I realize I have used up another good luck charm. I also remember that only a couple of months ago a guy died near here when his Ute collected a cow.

Next morning in the light of day it is clear that the bull bar has also pushed into the right side fender and there is a hoof print in the running board. It is apparent that at least two cows have inflicted the damage. Thank goodness for luck, and insurance.

I know its like buying flowers for your girlfriend after a breakup (or closing the proverbial gate after the horse has bolted) but after finally getting the troopy back from the panel shop we invested in spotlights and new tyres.

 

 ENJOYING THE NINGALOO REEF & A RESCUE
 

 With family visiting we finally get the chance to go out on the Ningaloo 2 for a Nature Tour. The day is looking like a beauty so its onto the bus and down to the new boat ramp facility. The MV Ningaloo 2 , an ex cray boat operated by Coral Bay Charters, a sister business to Bayview (www.coralbaywa.com), is waiting jetty side.
  
We are greeted by Captain Graham, swimmer Vicki and deckie/hostie Yasmine and put to sea.

The plane is up and we are steaming for Batemans Bay out from Mauds Landing, the usual haunt of the Manta Rays. We no sooner arrive than a sighting is confirmed and we are divided into two groups. Our swimmer Vicki is quick into the water followed by group 1, while the rest of us take the opportunity to take some shots of the Manta line feeding directly in front of the Ningaloo. Then its our turn, group two are into the water and the Manta is right there - swim like your life depends on it to keep up - the thrill of the chase - the serenity - this is an awesome experience. 

We return to the MV Ningaloo just as a new Manta is spotted, right next to the boat. Group one are again swimming - however this time the Manta is in no hurry. We choose to have a spell, so the balance of group two also join the swimmers. While we are waiting a pod of dolphins cruise into our space and turn on a twisting, turning display. Everyone are just back on the MV Ningaloo deck excitably soaking up Manta therapy when the call from the spotter plane announces a whale is only a couple of kilometers away, also in the bay. This is fantastic luck - and the MV Ningaloo sets off in pursuit.

Very shortly we reach the whale, but before anyone can whip out a camera the whale performs a fantastic aerial maneuver and then heads for the open sea. Now armed with cameras we set off for the chase, getting tantalizing glimpses of the whale. We are all starting to think this was all a tease when the whale suddenly slows and cuts behind the MV Ningaloo - the skipper nimbly brings the MV Ningaloo around, just in time for us to click off shots of the whale rolling then diving. By this time we had cleared the passage and were out in open sea and as the whale seemed to be steaming for Antarctica, we turned back through North Passage.

The MV Ningaloo had just reentered the bay when she turned back towards North Passage and increased knots -something has caught the skippers eye. Then we all see an esky floating in the waves, and suddenly a partially submerged tinny (dinghy) rises on a wave, and horrifyingly someone is clinging to the side. The skipper puts Vicki the tour swimmer, into the water, and with strong strokes she rapidly makes the distance to the troubled tinny. She ascertains the accident has only just occurred and the boatman is alone and uninjured. The skipper edges the MV Ningaloo as close as possible and a line is secured to the tinny and pulled into the MV Ningaloo and what gear is left is salvaged. With everyone safely on board, the extra passenger assessed as OK and the tinny in tow, we are consulted (as managers of the vessel) as to what now should be done? We believed all danger has now been averted, so we elect to complete the tour rather than beat a hasty return to base.

So it was onto a cruise through the turtle sanctuary, then to a special spot to snorkel on the coral reef before returning to the marine facility. We had a fantastic day and were exceedingly lucky, however there is no question the chap in the tinny was luckier. 

Footnote: Ningaloo Coast is UNESCO World Heritage listed.