Chris' phone is ringing. So we get to the top of the hill and stop to answer it. It is work (finding out where we are up to. John in the office has a map in front of him). We are at a place called Kilmartin and who would believe it has a lovely village green to look at, a bench to sit on and even better, proper public conveniences with paper towels, loo rolls and that are absolutely spotless. Brilliant in the middle of nowhere. It was raining when we left Lochgilphead but we have now just taken off our light rain jackets the sky appears to be blue in the distance.