The day started slowish due to a heat induced headache for me (Alex), but once water and paracetamol was had, a shower, and a cheeky coffee from the cafe next to Subway, we hit the road again... Bright eyed and bushy tailed.

Today we had a late change of plan. Originally, we were going to head back into Newcastle for a second stab of the place. We had thought we did all the right things in the wrong order yesterday. But, on reflection, and as time was short, we headed straight to the Hunter Valley - NSW's premier wine region!

Driving deep into Cessnock region, and through the unspectacular Cessnock town, we headed for Pokolbin, the 'spiritual heart of lower Hunter Valley'. Which, quite interestingly is Hungarian for 'hell hole'.

According to legend, early Hungarian settlers to the region were so taken aback by the extreme climatic conditions here (temperatures that can range from freezing up to 50 degrees), they named it 'Pokolbin'.

Then again, we did read this on the back of a wine bottle... So who knows.

Arriving at a gorgeous little rest spot up above the vineyards, here we made brunch. Picturesque really doesn't do it justice. The heat was increasing though... at 11.30, it was already 36 degrees. Wowza.

First stop was to find air con. So... Tourist Centre to work out our next Hunter Valley steps!

From here, we drive to Hope Valley wine estate, where we are delighted by the free wine tastings they give us.

It went something like this:-

- Alice approaches the bar
- Australian woman offers her wine
- Alice, taken aback from this offer, accepts
- We chat and try some different wine tasters
- We say thanks, don't pay and leave
- Australian woman doesn't call the police

It turns out all Cellar Doors do this. How terribly civil! We suppose they're just looking for us to enjoy the experience, feel brand loyal, and the very next time we rock up to a liquor store we buy their wine. And do you know what... it works!! As such, Alice and I will keep an eye out for Hope Estate wines, and Tempus II wines (especially their dessert wine. This was very tasty indeed).

Leaving the Hunter Valley proper, we take what was billed as a good little drive down to Wollombi, a historic village nearby. Wollombi apparently meaning 'where 2 waters meet' in Aborigine.

We discover that Woolombi really is a small historic village, and muse that it has only really survived into the 21st century thanks to the Hunter Valley nearby... which means it gets day tourists like us poking around! We check out the 'general store', an Australian / American phenomenon, and enjoy coffee in the old parlour room by the side of the wooden building.

We want to visit the neighbouring Wollombi Cultural Centre, but unfortunately it is closed, perhaps indefinitely?

Continuing to wander around the empty historic village (it has turned out to be that kind of day), we find the old Court House turned Heritage Museum nearby. Again, this suffers from small town-itis, and has already closed to visitors for the day (just as we had been caught out in Maryborough). However, we amuse ourselves by inspecting the historic 19th century ploughing equipment that adorns the grounds outside. There are ground drives, hayrakes, scufflers.. they were all here in their rusty glory!

Stuck without anything else better to do, we play in the empty children's playground. It was really good fun. (Honestly!)

Finally hauling ourselves away from the children's playground when we both realised just how long we've spent there, we decide it's time to leave Wollombi. Onwards to our rest stop.

Jumping into Jucy, we pass through a village called Laguna, where there were some massive metallic ants on cars. (?!) Yep, no idea about this one either.

Then the tourist drive back got very hilly and windy. Great fun! Climbing higher and higher, the temperature dropped from 34 to 24 degrees!

...and then, it rained. Incredible scenes Jeff!

Then we arrive at our final rest stop of this 12 night RV experience, another service station car park. These are probably my least favourite types of rest stops to be honest. Hanging around in McDonalds for their free wifi is a depressing experience, and there are so many truckers here, we feel like we're encroaching on their space. Today is the day we seriously pined for an airbnb. Nearly there!!

We conclude the evening by taking a shower, drinking having earl grey and watching Love Actually in the truckers salon. Feeling a little bit more Christmassy after that!

...and it still rains.

AF