Sunday morning I left the hostel and walked over to the Jongmyo Shrine about 20 mins away. Today was the main event that I came for this weekend. The Jongmyo Daeje ceremony is held once a year on the first Sunday in May. It is to honour the spirits of the dead kings.

The ceremony dates back several centuries to the Joseon Dynasty but was banned during the Japanese occupation. In recent years they have restarted the annual ritual. Here is a good summary, click the 'next' icon to see all the steps http://www.jongmyo.net/sub/process/eng_ pro_outline.asp.

The agenda was a morning ceremony from 9-11, then a parade with the king will arrive around noon from Gyeongbokgung the main palace in Seoul. Then in the afternoon there will be another ceremony from about 1-3. When I arrived at the gates before 9 a crowd was already gathering. The $1 admission fee had been waived today.

When they let us in there is a cobbled path leading into the grounds. I'm not sure if that was for the Kings carriage or for dead spirits to enter, but we weren't allowed to walk on the stones. The crowd headed to one of the compounds inside the grounds. I thought it would be a large open area like the other palaces but this was different.

It was a large rectangular compound with the gates opening at the centre. From the gates the stone path we are not allowed to walk on leads thru the centre of the compound to the covered area at the far wall. The inside of the compound has a raised stone area about two foot high covering the entire courtyard area. Around the perimiter there is a sand around the raised stone courtyard. This is the only area we were allowed to stand

Luckily since I arrived before 9 I had a good spot right against the wall of the raised courtyard in the centre. However, more people kept arriving and were cramped in the small sand area. Later we could hear more crowds outside who were unable to get in due to limited space. Fortunately they had big screen tvs set up outside for people to see.

The ceremony itself begins with several people carrying what looks like a book covered in cloth up the stone path. The courtyard is filled with people dressed in red on the left who formed about ten military lines of ten persons. On the right hand side were older nobelmen, again forming military lines. The centre areas had musicians seated.

After some ritual commands the musicans began playing flutes, banging a drum, and tapping bells and chimes. The noblemen formed a line and went up the steps to the covered area at the far side of the courtyard. They then entered open rooms were were set up along the entire wall. Inside there were metal urns and other items.

Video : Morning Ceremony - Part I
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=itBnB1Nu sb0

Inside the rooms they proceeded to do something while chants were said, music played, and bells chimed. The people in red were performing some sort of ritual. All in uniform they would raise one hand, circle it round, bow, turn to one side. They kept doing this in cycles facing front, left, and right. The alternated between holding a flute, a stick with a tassel, and lastly a long spear with a tassle.

Video : Morning Ceremony - Part II
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eTIh-8WV Q5E

This went on from 9.30-12.00. During this whole time I had to stand in one spot pressed against the raised wall. If I moved I would lose my spot and crowds behind couldnt get in. After 11 it started to empty as it was too cramped and I guess people got tired or gave up. When the ceremony ended I thought I could goto the washroom, wander the grounds, and try to eat some food I had brought.

But the events didnt end. All the people in red and noblemen filed out in single file to an adjacent walled compound. Here I could see stadium style seating setup so this is probably where the parade would enter. I had to hold my spot in the line or otherwise I'd be near the back as it was quite crowded by now.

They opened the doors just after noon and I rushed in but the stadium seating filled instantly. The best seats in the centre were reserved for elderly which was a good idea. Then they said we could sit on the stone courtyard so I managed to get front row centre again. This compound was the same as before but much larger, so allowed for stadium seating in the rear and for us to sit on the stone courtyard this time. They also had two large screen tvs setup this time.

By 12.30 events began again as all the people in red and noblemen entered and formed their military lines again. This time there were commentators with english and chinese subtitles on the big screen. The Jongmyoo Shrine is a Unesco listed historic site. But the ceremony has also been listed as a Unesco intangible property. This was the 10th anniversary of this recognition.

A representative from Unesco made some opening remarks. Ironically I think he was Japanese, and they had banned the events during their occupation. There were also visiting Ambassadors as was customary. I believe they mentioned Hungary, Israel, Azerbaijan, Netherlands, and Ukraine. There were also tv crews from news channels MBC and YTN.

The afternoon ceremony seemed to be the same as the morning, except for the english subtitles on the big screen. Not sure what happened to the parade? Maybe they just bring the covered book and disperse coz no parade entered, just the elders carrying the book again. A surviving member from the Royal Family was also part of the rituals but not sure who exactly.

Again, I had to sit in one spot from about noon on the stone floor. This time instead of cramps, tired legs, and being pushed, had to deal with foot going to sleep so had to keep shifting position. By 2.40 my body couldnt take any more, this had been from 9am, and nothing different was happened so I got up and walked around the back to take some long shots. I had to get back to Seoul station for my 4pm train to Daegu.

The ceremony was good and I recommend going at least once. I dont think you need to do both morning and afternoon ceremonies as they seemed the same. Morning I actually preferred as it was more intimate. Afternoon with stadium seating and dignataries seemed more like a show but was not as cramped for spectators. The advantage was on the big screen we had subtitles and could see what they were doing in the chambers with the urns at the back of the courtyard.

This was my first time back in Seoul proper since my first visit during the Chuseok holiday week. That time I didnt see the crowds as many people go back to their hometowns. This time I got to see Seoul crowds. People are friendly but I dont want to live in this crowded a city.

The weather was really nice sunday, for an all day outdoor event, after the disgusting weather all day saturday. Going back to the station there were lots of lanterns set up for Buddhas birthday the following weekend but I will be in Jeju island. It was a long tiring weekend and another one coming up with a four day holiday next weekend.