Having explored so many temples its hard to find unique ones with their own distinct character. However I was able to find one such temple just outside of Busan city. Tongdosa is a large templex complex easy to reach and houses a special museum of Buddhist relics.

The easiest way to reach there is a bus from Busan's northern Nopo Bus Terminal. However living in Daegu, I didnt want to go down to Busan, back up again to the Temple, and return back to Busan to get a bus back to Daegu. There had to be a bus from Daegu since the temple is inbetween Daegu and Busan.

Luckily I found some info online mentioning a slow bus to Busan that will stop at Tongdosa. This bus is not mentioned on any of the online bus sites since it's only the name of a stop and not the destination of the bus.

The ticket from Daegu was 7.900w ($7.25) and seems to run hourly. This bus does not go express on the highway but pulls off to many small roadside bus stops before getting back on the highway. After stopping at the Gyeongju Bus Terminal I then started seeing signs for Tongdosa.

The stop for Tongdosa was actually a highway service station. Somewhat confused I wasnt sure where to go as service stations usually only access the highway. I asked somebody who worked there. He spoke some english and led me to the rear staff entrance.

He told me to follow the service road back into town and walk for 15 mins and head behind the tallest apartment building. It wasnt too difficult as once I came into town there were street signs leading me to the temple. From the service station it was just one street with one left turn.

Temple admission was 3000w ($2.75). This was followed by another 15 min walk to reach the actual temple complex deeper in the forest. After the main outer gate where you pay admission there was an inner gateway to show you had finally reached the complex.

One of the things that interested me at this temple was a museum of Buddhist relics. This was at the start of the complex in a large newly built building. You had to remove your shoes to enter and photography was not allowed.

The ground floor had two wings on either side. One had ceramics, some bronzeware, calligraphy writing and printing tablets.

The other wing had more historical items. There were small painted Buddha figures, a stone buddha, and other faded artwork. Photography is not allowed and there were attendants though I managed a couple of pics

On the upper floor is a gallery of historic Buddha artwork. It was supposed to close at 4pm and it was now 5 past 4. I was hoping to see it and the door was unlocked. An older lady opened it and went in so I followed.

The attendant had left since it was supposed to be closed but occasionally people were still coming in. They would do a loop of the room bowing to each of the pictures.

The artwork was very detailed and in some cases quite faded. Since there were no guards in the room I took some pics as the artwork was quite exquisite. However, this was still a place of worship with people bowing to the paintings so I was trying to be respectful as well.

Another main feature of the building is a giant two storey Buddha painting that hangs in the entrance between the two floors. From the upper floor I was able to get a span of it.

Although you are not officially allowed to take photographs in the museum I'd have to say this is one of the best Buddhist museums I have seen in Korea, particularly the second floor art gallery.

To enter into the actual temple complex there was then another doorway to go thru. Here as usual were a pair of Temple Gods on either side

The complex was quite large and doesnt follow the traditional layout of other temples. Some of the buildings were quite old with faded artwork.

In another building they had a reproduction gallery of the artwork from the main museum. Here you were allowed to examine them close up and take photographs.

The ceiling also had its own faded artwork in the upper timbers that vaulted towards the top. The reproduction artwork showed many detailed scenes of Royal Courts

Outdoors there were many buildings to visit ranging in size. Some were still undergoing restoration work.

All the buildings so far were in an outer sanctum. You then go thru another doorway into an inner sanctum of buildings. Here were some meditation halls were people were seated on kneeling pads

Similar to other temples there was a building with foot sized carved painted figures. One of them was an interesting robed figure with beard that seemed to resemble Genghis Khan

On one side was a very long and wide building. Inside were kneeling mats towards the front. This large hall is used for mass meditations. Some unusual features were wishing wells where people would toss coins in.

Another distinct feature was a large outdoor meditation square. This was of a small, medium, and large square all inside each other. In the centre was a large stupa. People would walk around the outer square while bowing to the stupa at the mid point.

The temple was quite busy for a Saturday afternoon and it was perfect weather considering it has been overcast a lot with the onset of rain season.

To head home it was 15 mins to leave the temple ground and another 10 mins to walk back thru town to the highway service stop for the bus back to Daegu. Looking at the bus times it actually runs every 90 mins so I had some time to get some food at the highway stop.

Tongdosa is very easy to reach from Busan, Ulsan, or the bus I took from Daegu. They also have a Templestay program where foreigners can stay overnight and participate in the meditations, and the museum probably has the best art collection in Korea.

Here is their website
http://www.tongdosa.or.kr/

There is also a good write up with more pics on Dale's Korean Temples Blog
http://koreantemples.com/?p=259