We really liked Cali, our first taster of a Colombian city. It was so completely against the expectations we had. A really modern area with trendy bars and restaurants, London could learn a new trick or two, plus the old town with churches and plazas and a great vibe everywhere. Not so keen on the Zona Rosa which is lined with cheap tacky Ibiza-style bars, but just two streets across and its like being in Beverly Hills! Plus the weather was incredible...so hot...

Thankfully a totally uneventful border crossing into Ipiales for a night where we had a tasty chicken dinner before retreating to watch cable TV with a few vintage bottles of the local brew Poker tucked under our arms...hurrah!! The 80 hour deadlock was broken and we both still like the taste of the amber nectar. Boarding our bus in the morning with money stashed around our bodies and each fully briefed on what to do in the event of one of the much-publicized b...