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Wednesday 3rd to 8th October 2018 - We went on a 5 day cruise around the Abrolhos Islands that are located approximately 60kms off the coast of Geraldton in Western Australia. The islands are made up of three major island groups, the Wallabi, Easter and Pelsaert groups. They are a chain of 122 islands that are diverse and picturesque; an archipelago of coral atolls surrounded by crystal blue waters with an abundance of sea life. The coral was amazing at every location; incredible formations in bright colours, seen from the boats and from the ocean, birds in the thousands, white beaches of coral and fine sand, the scenery was just stunning, the best we've ever encountered…
The Abrolhos Islands are not only known for its important seabird breeding sites, but for the western rock lobster - Yum!, pearls and its numerous ship wrecks.
The day before we set sail we arrived in Geraldton where we boarded the Eco Abrolhos, a 34.5m catamaran to spend the night in port after having a pizza dinner with the other passengers.
We had dropped our rig at the Eco Abrolhos office where it was parked during our cruise. We had some spare time before getting on board, so we had a look around Geraldton and enjoyed a seafood lunch at a restuarant called Skeetas.
Day 1 - Thursday 4th October 2018 - We left port as the sun rose over the Morseby Ranges and sailed towards the Easter group. On the way we saw lots of Humpback Whales playing & breaching in the ocean together with dolphins swimming at the bow of the boat.
We dropped anchor at Little Sandy Island and had lunch before heading off to snorkel along the reef where we saw beautiful coloured coral & fish. Walking back to the tender we saw sea lions and did a spot of bird watching.
Back on board changed and out again on the tender to drive by Big Rat and Little Rat Islands where the crayfish/lobster fishermen live. The islands were covered in shacks that each had a jetty for their boats and cray pots.
We had sunset drinks and nibbles on the top deck before dinner, a brief on the day's events, a photo show of the pictures taken by the on-board photographer and fishing off the back of the boat.
Day 2 - Friday 5th October 2018 - Today we did the following:
06:30hrs - We went out on the tender to pull the cray pots where we caught enough crayfish/lobster for lunch.
07:30hrs - Sailed to Post Office Island on the Southern Group for a Pearl Farm tour given by the owner Jane Lidden who lived on the island that had been in her family for generations.
11:30hrs - Sailed to Palsaert Island where we anchored for a crayfish lunch before catching a tender to the shore where with hammer & screwdriver the men opened oysters sitting at the water's edge. What a tasty morsel to start the walk along the coast listening to the history of how the guano from the thousands of Brown Noddy's (Sea bird) that nest on the island was transferred from the quarry to the jetty and then shipped to England. The guano was used as fertiliser.
16:00hrs - Sailed to the Easter Group and dropped anchor at Little Rat Island before another wonderful dinner and a repeat of the previous night's events.
Day 3 - Saturday 6th October 2018 - Today we did this:
06:30hrs - We went out again in one of the tenders to pull the cray pots for some more crayfish.
08:00hrs - Up anchor and sailed to Leo's Island where we walked round to a small inland lagoon called Ian Locked Lake to feed a couple of large Estuarine Cod before taking a wander along the beach. Underfoot were layers of broken coral and shells that formed the terrain for the Abrolhos Islands. We saw more sea lions and sea birds.
11:00hrs - Back on board to up anchor and sail to a spot in the ocean call Anemone Lump for a snorkel amongst the coral, spangled emperors and parrot fish. After spotting a shark we made our way back on board for lunch and threw the mooring.
14:30hrs - Sailed to Wooded Island where we viewed the rare Lesser Noddy's (sea Bird) nesting amongst the mangroves. We walked up to them sitting on their nests and they didn't move. We continued along the trail, doing some more birdwatching and before we arrived at a place called Squid Hole where we drift snorkelled in a deep channel & saw lots of fish including some Clown Fish.
As we were getting out there was a sea lion basking on the sandy beach. It then decided to get into the clear water and our snorkelling guide said that if we wanted to we could get back in and swim with it. As we were the only one's still left on the beach waiting for the next tender to pick us up we got back in the clear water and swam with this play sea lion with it doing acrobatics under the water. What an amazing experience.
16:00hrs - Up anchor to sail to the location for our overnight mooring, dinner and an evening learning about the Batavia.
Day 4 - Sunday 7th October 2018 - This is what we did today:
07:30hrs - We didn't go out this morning for the Pot Pull as we decided to have a bit of a lay in. Up anchor and sailed back to the Easter Group.
09:30hrs - Arrived at Beacon Island known as the Island of the angry ghosts to learn about the tragic story below of the Batavia Ship Wreck.
On 4 June 1629 the Batavia was shipwrecked on Morning Reef in the Wallabi Group of the Houtman Abrolhos Islands. Commander Francisco Pelsaert and select crew set off in the ship's longboat to seek help and those left endured on of the most horrific mutinies in history.
The Batavia was the flagship of the Dutch East India Company fleet and left Holland on its maiden voyage 27 October 1628 en route to the East Indies to obtain spices. The ship was under the command of Pelsaert with Adriaan Jacobsz as skipper. Also on board was Jeronimus Cornelisz, who conceived a plan with Jacobsz to take the ship with all its gold, silver and supplies. After Jacobsz deliberately steered the ship off course it was eventually shipwrecked at Morning Reef near Beacon Island.
Abrolhos Islands
The survivors, including women and children, were transferred to nearby islands. With no food or water Pelsaert decided to gather a group and head for the mainland. After an unsuccessful search for water they headed north to Batavia (now known as Jakarta). The journey is ranked as one of the greatest feats of navigation in open boats, taking 33 days with all on board surviving.
Mutiny
Back on the islands, Cornelisz had been left in charge putting all weapons and food supplies under his control. He then moved the soldiers to West Wallabi Island under the false pretence of searching for water. This left Cornelisz in complete control and the two month mutiny endured. Of the 341 people who left Texel aboard the Batavia, around 125 men, women and children were murdered.
Wiebbe Hayes Fort
The soldiers, meanwhile, led by Wiebbe Hayes, did in fact find food and water. Learning of the mutiny, the soldiers devised makeshift weapons, set watch and built a small fort out of limestone and coral blocks. Battles raged but Hayes' men prevailed until Pelsaert returned. The Wiebbe Hayes Stone Fort on West Wallabi Island is the oldest surviving European structure in Australia.
Due to the very low tides we unfortunately did not get to snorkel on the site of the wreck, but it was fascinating to hear the history and visit some of the islands where the survivors managed to swim too and sadly where the atrocities took place.
11:30hrs - Up anchor, having lunch on the way to sail on to Big Pigeon Island for a Crayfisherman tour where we walked amongst their homes, school and community centre that were in use before the government changed the fishing quotas. The islands were once thriving communities before a fishing quota was introduced, that changed the way the islanders now live.
15:00hrs - Up anchor and sailed to Turtle Bay and Long Island for an island surprise.
16:00hrs - We were transferred to the beach of yet another beautiful Island where we strolled along the beach encountering a number of different lizards, birds including Osprey and the Tamar Wallaby a small wallaby that can only be found on Long Island.
We made our way back to the landing spot and found that the crew had set up an area for sunset drinks & nibbles on the beach before arriving back on board for dinner and quiz. This was our last evening of this amazing trip. Oh! We were also on the winning quiz team called The Tamar Wallabies.
Day 5 - Monday 8th October 2018 - On our last day before sailing back to port:
We strolled along Long Island beach where we saw more lizard & birds before snorkelling amongst the magnificent coral in Turtle Bay. Then back on board to shower, change, pack and an early lunch before pulling anchor and riding the rough seas back to Geraldton. On the way we saw more Humpback whales and dolphins that swam beside the boat.
Wow, what a trip!!!
- comments
Susan McCann It’s getting close to your birthday, Anne. Wonder where you’ll be then? What lovely memories you are creating.
Jan & Martin What an amazing time you are both having. Fantastic photos.xx
Val Fantastic trip it’s like reading a novel almost unreal. What an experience
Peter Land This all sounds brilliant Phil. Gathering great memories to bring back! Worrying news about Glann Hoddle, he had a massive heart attack on his 61st birthday yesterday, described as 'serious' in hospital, hoping he's going to be okay.
Kaye Nutman That sounds amazing. What a beautiful 5 day trip, and a change to the caravan. Love the photo!