Monday 8th December

We packed up from American River to a cold overcast day - with the prospect of rain. We checked out Prospect Hill on our way back to Penneshaw - The isles in the bar were not laid out on a velvet sea of turquoise with the sun tracking lazily across an azure dome. It was bleak and windy however very much worth the climb which is quite brisk given that this is just a giant sandhill encrusted with low bushes.

We left Ernie at the visitor centre car park and headed out to Cape Willoby Light House - the first half of the distance was bitumen or excellent dirt and then the rot set in so we slowed down - we did not have much time at the lighthouse, not enough time to soak in the beauty of the rocky inlet below the light - Mal's mouth watered at the sight of such beauty however no time because we had to get back to our ocean safari tour and grab lunch before that as well.

Lunch at Dudley's Winery was special - we had a Pizza - baked pumpkin and caramellized onion - to mention the main ingredients. The view from the deck down a steep valley to the ocean and the mainland in the distance, hazy like some sort of dream.

Well Tony has this boat, it has twin 200HP outboards on the back and he stacks about 10 people onto padded saddles with a bar to hold at the front and a padded back rest. Off we went to see some bottle nosed dolphins - and sure enough Tony delivered - they are such beautiful creatures (if you are not on their menu) - we also saw a white breasted sea eagle, so NZ fur seals and pied cormorants - and some rather beautiful twisted melelucas standing on a high bank of rock that slid gracefully into the ocean in an ordered manner.

We rode down to Vivonne Bay camp area after picking up a few items at the supermarket. The camp grounds are really well maintained and very functional - however none so far, of the three we had visited had what we were looking for. Vivonne Bay had a bald headed, heavily tattoed, long bearded, boat towing camper playing heavy metal music because he was not able to tow the boat with his Harley. I guess he was just the boy next door but I don't imagine his friends play golf.

Tuesday 9th December

The other young couple camped near by had a small boy about three - who would yell out "Hello" and loved to be greeted back in the same fashion.

The wind blew all night, so Mal thought the camper was falling apart with the banking and rattling (one loose stay and an empty Ginger Beer bottle in the rubbish bag). We packed in the morning and headed for Flinders Chase NP.

We refueled at the small store where a lady probably in her 50's who owns a XB500 Honda was happy to chat and tell us about her life - which was fun.

We checked out the KI West Caravan Park on our way to Finders Chase NP, but when we arrived at the NP there was no question - lets settle in here for the next few days. We like to set up a base for four or five nights and then see a location in detail and not in a mad rush. So after several delays we had the camp established at site 14 - remember that number it is a good site -

In the afternoon we did a walk out to the platypus pools, saw two koalas, but none of our web footed friends.

As we were preparing our evening meal a small jenny wren was popping in to see us, she would hop into the annexe and stop about a foot form our feet and singing her happy little foraging song - then scamper off, only to return 20 minutes later to see if any crumbs had fallen from our table.

Wednesday 10th December

Major announcement - NO WIND - did you hear that - NO WIND.

BUT - the possum helped himself to our unzipped fruit and vege bag - one apple totally consumed, one potato partially chewed, tomato half consumed and a large chunk out of the banana - well he eats his fruit and veg - so will remain strong and healthy for many years to come.

We decided rain or no we were getting out and about - so we headed off to Admiral's Arch in a soft rain with a lot of added wind for good measure. It was freezing and cold but we did our best and checked out the old stores ruin and also Remarkable Rocks - which are remarkable - sensuous and intimate - people obviously like them - they are an endless stream (150,000 per year) getting photographed next to or on top of or inside one or another rock. We were both cold so we arrived home about 3pm - Mal should have gone back that day for some sunset photos - but there goes that spilt milk.

Thursday 11th December

Mal headed off to the Remarkables and Sue to bird watching.

WE were both back for lunch and Mal headed back to remarkables - but no sunset, just grey clouds a mile thick. - met Mick the intrepid traveller in his 1968 blue VW beetle - nearly completed his lap around Australia which started in Sydney in March this year. The sunset was crap, should have gone last night.

Friday 12th December

We got away and were on the Koala walk at caravan park by 8.30am - several koalas and one very photogenic male - yes we know he was a male. The caravan park at west KI is a good one and great sites with lots of birds and space - more a camp ground than a crappy Big 4 detention camp.

We had morning tea a few Kms down the road at a café - as we were leaving Sue spotted an echidna and they had a great photoshoot - he did not roll into a ball but just showed her how to dig for grubs and beetles and did not expect her to demonstrate her learnt skills - but kept about his business.

Well we swanned into Seal Bay with 15 minutes till the next beach tour - and who should be our tour guide, none other than Ron Swan (who we met on our first night at American River). So great tour and the seals are like aquatic Labradors - but not to be messed with. A 350kg male could have anyone for breakfast if they desired.

Mal encouraged Sue to visit the Raptor display of hunting birds where Bart and Nina showed us some truly awe inspiring birds - killers yes, but each had it's special skills for staying alive in a dog eat dog world (I was going to say natural world but Tony Abbott and Joe Hockey came to mind).

In the late afternoon we again rode out to the Remarkable Rocks for some sunset shots, but there was no clouds so the sunset was just warm yellow light - we unfortunately left our run out to Admiral's Arch till too late and missed the light there. We did however surprise a Stone Curlew on the ride home which was a treat. The Tawney Frogmouths are the soundtrack for this evening.

Saturday 13th December

We got out of bed early ( I would like to say we bounced out but NO we didn't) - we were away by just after 8.30am and headed North and East for our first stop at Stokes Bay - Mal liked this place, very quiet, a Café and a few houses - still perfect.

We opted to take the North Coast Road - yep it is dirt but we headed off and almost immediately Sue spotted a koala - so she bounded back to say hello. Emu Bay is pretty - white beach, small jetty at one end and not too many houses yet, but they will come.

We stopped for lunch at the Lavender Farm and finished off with lavender flavoured ice cream - you laugh - hey it was good.

The ferry over to the mainland was smooth as the day was calm - it was sad leaving the island - there is something very appealing to Mal about islands - guess it was growing up on Curtis and Thursday Islands when he was in that very impressionable age - hey he is still very impressionable.

We rode over the hills towards Victor Harbour and on the way we passed the start of a "Bush Fire" - a few people had already stopped to call the fire brigade so we stopped at the next farm just to let them know in case they were in a position to help - as we passed on the message a fire truck went racing towards the fire - it is a serious matter down here and everyone takes it very seriously.

We stopped at Victor Harbour under some large pine trees and took some time to think about the next 10 days and exactly how we are going to wend our way back to home base.