It is warm from the minute we wake up. Nick W sets off on the bike and Grete leads us to the funicular which runs up the hillside to the town.
A short walk leads us to the huge square, entered at each corner through arched gateways. Tuesday is market day and the square is filled with stalls and white vans. We amble through the aisle of clothing, shoes and houseware before meetng Nick W at the far side, right beside a convenient coffee shop.
From the square we turn onto Via Roma, the main street through Cuneo. It's a beautifully elegant wide street with tall, neo classical buildings. Some are painted in bas-relief, others with murals, and all are different. Looking back, the colourful terraces frame distant mountains. The cathedral is cool and at first gloomy, but as our eyes adjust the gilding and murals begin to stand out together with the different colours of marble.
Ali and Grete visit the food stalls and assemble a picnic. From another stall the Nicks get storage bottles which we fill with water from the fountain. We sit in the shade with pork kebabs, tomatoes and polenta cakes, with loquat fruit for desert.
Along each side of Via Roma there are wide arcades with plastered ceilings, but the most striking things are the shop fronts, which are carved and decorarted wood with glass and gilded signs. Cuneo and some of the surrounding towns are known as 'slow towns' which a few years ago rebelled against the growth of global brands and fast food. Now every shop and restaurant are independant enterprises promoting artisan products.
Under the arcades are milliners, bread and vegetables and dairies, plus specialists selling the local Borola wine and rum chocolate. We buy a box of macarons for this evening then finmd a bar for a drink. With our drinks comes antipasti so more eating in the shady acade.
Nick and Grete head back on the bike while we wander a bit more before finding our way to the funicular and back to the sosta.
A quiet late afternoon in the shade of the vans then a picky bits dinner outside.
Cuneo is a fascinating town and we're very glad we came.