We are up quite early aided by the amount of traffic going through the harbour.
Destination today is Noto but instead of the direct route we start out along the coast past some interesting derelict industrial buildings and a castle-like structure. A few miles on the coast road is closed where a bridge is being repaired so we go back towards Pachino, through the town onto Noto. We've programmed a camperstop in Noto and approach on a none too promising road, but suddenly it opens into a huge carpark.
As we are getting out, the Italian owners of the adjacent motorhome come over, introduce the family and tell us it's a good place to stay the night.
The town centre is not far but we have to go down a few steep narrow passage ways to avoid flights of steps but it only takes 10 minutes and we are in a lovely little square with our first views of the Baroque splendour Noto is noted for. There is a rose and lavender garden and a big open space in front of the theatre hall which looks like a small version of the Paris Opera, with carved musical instruments aroun the facade.
All of the stonework is pale ochre and the roads are paved with black volcanic slabs. Looking up we see balconies supported by hefty stone supports carved with leaves, cherubs and lion heads.
A little restaurant with sunny terrace does us for lunch of bruschetta and lemonade, which give Ali the energy to brave the climb up the bell tower for views over the city.
Further along Corso Vittorio Emanuele is the stunning cathedral of San Nicolio, rebuilt after being badly damaged in the 1996 earthquake. Sitting at the top of a flight of wide steps [which we believe were used in one of the Godfather films] it glows pale peach in the sunshine.
All around town groups of children in uniforms are being herded around and the church steps are being set up for some sort of event.
Festivals run most of the year, and in a few weeks this whole street will be carpeted in flowers for 'Infioriata'.
We continue past Piazza dell Immacolata, an imposing convent, and on through the arched gate, Porta Reale.
Up another side street are the best balconies with bellied out railings and very ornately carved supports. A 'well-to-do' English group are studying them and a lady explains 'I'm told the straight railings are for the chaps and the rounded ones are for the girls in their big frocks, but I'm not sure if it's true'.
We wander some more, seeing new detail each time we pass something, before finding Caffe Costanzo, famed for 'the best ice cream in Italy'. We have a bowl full each with various flavours; thick, smooth and creamy, the star is the dark chocolate with orange essence. Think of a Terry's on steroids tweaked by a top chef. Surprisngly inexpensive too, two big bowls of ice cream and two coffees are €9.60
Fit to burst, we return past the catherdral where rose bushes have ben arranged on the steps and a white streched limo is waiting for the newly married couple but we don't linger with the other onlookers. Further up the road 'Clergy-Cones' are doing good trade; a group of monks and vicars are sitting on a terrace devouring ice creams. We name them; Father Walnut, Brother Pistachio, the Vanilla Vicar and so on.
As the evening crowd move in to start the passeggiata the evening sun changes the colour of the stonework.
We return to the van feeling whacked. Nearby the fast food man is setting up his van and marquee and does a roaring trade all evening as cars and kids on scooters rush in and out for paninni, arancini etc. Too tired to cook and not very hungry, we get a small burger each and then crash into bed.