This morning is a treat! It's the first morning since we stayed at the agritourismo in Segesta that is both peaceful and with no rush to go. After an uninterrupted night's deep sleep we pull back the cab curtains and lay in bed watching the rising sun light up the north east side of Mount Etna. A steady plume of white smoke or steam is carried along in the breeze. It is after 09:00 before we start getting up. Sunday's debacle and our decision to linger here...

Our quiet car park worked, but there's no lie in as a lorry arrives at 07:00 and unloads a digger which then trundles down the road with tracks screeching and rumbling. Eager to avoid another yesterday, we check a few options for tonight before setting off on the S284 which loops west and north of Mount Etna. The sun is shining as we climb towards Bronte and everywhere there are vines and pistachio trees. Soon after we leave Bronte we find a layby with a head ...