Traffic starts quite early but it was a peaceful night. By the time we leave, the Germans are, as they were when we arrived, out in their deckchairs. Surely there are more enjoyable things than sitting in a gravel parking area next to a busy road. Each to their own.

We head back to town and over the bridge, all looking better than yesterday, and soon we are out on the main roads towards Civitavecchia. It appears quite marshy with a good few canals and rich green grass. We rejoin the bumpy dual carriageway and make good progress.

Near Civitavecchia we have the first toll station [80 cents in cash] then we are climbing on smooth wide motorway above the port we visited twice on cruises. Today's visitor is the Italian cruise ship, Costa Diamedes.

At the next toll the single cash booth has 10 or 12 cars queuing so we move to an empty card-payment one. Ali tries two cards, neither seem to work, then about 2ft of ticket spurts out, the speaker babbles Italian and the barrier lifts. Ali examines this length of till roll and halfway down, in English, are instructions about unpaid toll fees.

At the next service station we stop for lunch and read about our misdemeanour. Simple; pay the toll online, at post offices, telepass outlets or any manned toll booth. No fines or penalties until 15 days. There is a service point here too so we flush and fill before rejoining the motorway to Rome.

There's light traffic most of the way and at the final toll booth we find a manned kiosk, confess to the Senator incumbent and settle our debt.

Rome's peripheral motorway is free but manic. There are usually three marked lanes, and at junctions a fourth exit or joining sliproad. In this arena the Romans manage anything up to six columns of traffic, and Gladitorial games including advanced slalom for scooterists, the hard shoulder sprint, find the faster column and the I'm a big lorry crush manouevre regaining lane 1 entering a tunnel where lorries aren't allowed to overtake. Why this one rule is observed can only be for sporting reasons. Speed varies from stop to 90kmh, sometimes side by side. But nobody honks or casts finger or thumb signals, it seems to be a case of the one in front does something and what happens behind, happens behind. Oh, there is also the ocassional bear pit. No actual bears, but the road suddenly opens up into craters designed to test the suspension of even the most robust chariot.

Eventually we have appeased the Emporers enough to exit the arena unscathed at the Frascati exit.

Climbing and climbing we enter the town named after one of our favourite white wines, all very old and elegant.

With Easter ahead we decide to refuel and pull into a fuel station with gazole @ €1.39. Unfortunately, going right of the pumps [our filler is on the left] put us on the attended side which is €1.56/ltr. Il pompino seems quite proud that he manages to trickle in enough to make a round €100.

Then it's ever bumpier roads up into the mountains to finally arrive at the Fatorre Amico, La Sonnina, a goat farm and regional produce shop near Genazzano.

The owner gives us a warm welcome and apologises the pizzaria is shut tonight. We hide our dissapointment; Nick for not getting pizza, Ali because she will have to cook.

In the farm shop three bottles of Frascati and a hunk of cheese are €15.

We are surrounded by mountains with hill side towns scattered around. As the sun goes down the towns start to twinkle, first with reflection on windows then with street lights.

After noise and traffic fumes, the peacefulness and rural aromas of an animal farm are wonderful.

Todays CD: Two Tone Revolution - SKA Maddness

Dinner: chicken risotto - with Frascati