The Garden Route is one of the main tourist attractions in South Africa; however you would be disappointed if you expected either gardens or tourists. In fact 'Garden Route refers to being fertile and is where most food is grown. Strangely I did not see much in the way of farms either. What the garden route has is lots of mountains, beaches and trees (the later attracts the hippies).

The first place we went to was BuffaloBay; solitary backpackers built in the sand dunes. If you like empty beaches, open fires, cool music and resident hippies this is just the ticket.

As soon as we got there we dropped off our stuff and headed for the beach (past a sign saying clothes were optional). We walked for about 2 hours in one direction and saw not a sole (except the two dogs from the backpackers that decided on a walkies). I loved this place and we had an enjoyable evening helped along by an open fire, a bar, a hippy and some decent music for a change.

The next day we headed to was Plettenberg bay for some comforts. We went to the first proper restaurant since Cape Town and this is the first place in South Africa that we saw dolphins (lots of brownie points from Liz). I found the place utterly boring.

Wild Spirit was the next backpackers in the Crags (at one end of the famous Otter Trail). This place was hippy HQ and with views to die for. Apart from tree hugging (which was very nice) it was the staging post for doing the first part of the otter trail. Being dutiful tourists we found ourselves doing another route (one of the hippy owners recommended it). The trail started off all right; some nice flowers, and something to baffle over; "where is that weird sound coming from" question.

This then took the edge off the next section of the route: trees, more trees and yet more trees. You may say "trust a hippie" if it wasn't for the next "are they trying to kill us" section where we had to negotiate the beach with vertical cliffs, high tide and waves the size of houses bashing the hell out of everything.

The girls (Viv and Brian were with us) stay put approach and a negative scouting report by Brian forced us to the 'go back but choose a different route' approach. This was fine apart from having to go through some nasty bushes to avoid some local flooding.

The hippie that suggested the route said (when she picked us up in the hippie shuttle) "are you Ok I forgot to check the high tide".

The decision on whether to stay on at Wild Spirit was negotiated with Liz on the news that Sharks (40 - 50) can be seen at the gully (place on the coast). I wanted to stay as I loved the building, the views and fresh coffee.

Anyway the next day (after I told the shocked hippies that America was wanting to mine the Moon), we set off for the gully. The hippy said "ït must be at high tide" and gave us a map. To cut a long story short, I had to climb up this tricky rock face to see into the gully which incidentally gave an excellent view of no sharks. I did find some nice plants and getting my hands on stone again felt good. The rest of the day was spent finding an alternative route to the gully so that Liz could confirm the lack of sharks - that failed.

The next day we had to move on (daren't refuse). I also had to find a non hippie backpackers with people (Liz does not count hippies). The Tube and Axe at StormsRiver was just the ticket, Brian said it had a party atmosphere.

Resisting the temptation of doing the world's highest bungee on the way there, we found the backpackers in good time. The first night was spent with a guy they called Bob Marley - so the first night Liz went to bed early - but I didn't. I got into one of those states when you leave the bar to go to bed but end up getting lost in the backpacker grounds only to find the same bar again!

The next days plans to "do the waterfall" were abandoned. Instead we had to do some serious internet business. Feeling satisfied that we eventually sorted the issue out and also having better heads we decided to go on a walk that Liz was recommended. Not knowing what this walk was about - it turned out to be one through the forest to see a big tree and tree ferns. Liz got bitten to hell with the mossies.

When we got back we found that the place was full of American 18-20 year olds. Liz said at least they are people and seemed OK. It quickly became apparent that some fun could be had - they are very gullible.

The next day we finally did a section of the otter trail despite Liz having a hang over. There were amazing waves hitting the rocks (need to be seen to be believed), amazing scenery but no otters.

Jeffery bay (surfers Mecca next stop).