As this is my second last day in this country I thought it appropriate to reflect on the past 12 months and what it has entailed for me......my personal journey. Some will agree and some will not with many of my thoughts but to everyone I say this is MY experience.

I cannot say it has been a pleasure, in fact it has been a horrendous experience with the exception of some of the wonderful people that I have met. The world of EFL brings together a potpourri of people all away from their home. Some you hope to never meet again BUT then there are those people who you are truly grateful have become part of your network of friends. The joy is that is that within the EFL world people move on to new adventures all the time and who knows when we may meet up again in a different place, under different circumstances.....but you just know that you can meet for dinner or a drink with these people and always find something to talk about.

Whilst most of my experiences have been negative I have tried to balance my list with some of the positive things that also happened. So here goes...my A-Z of Vietnam;

A - Aroma Apartments. This is where I was forced to live. They are nicely furnished apartments but are in the middle of nowhere. No facilities, no local transport just 2 stark imposing building standing surrounded my fields that are gradually recovering from the effects of Agent Orange. It is like compound living (which I associate with the Middle East) but without the enormous benefits that expats are offered when they do have to live in a compound.

Ao Dai - the Vietnamese traditional dress for ladies. Consisting of a long flowing dress over pants. It is both elegant and extremely comfortable.

B - bag snatching. A national pastime which severely detracts from ever feeling comfortable - not just snatching they have no fear in assaulting you to get it as well. Having to be constantly aware takes way from any enjoyment you might find in your surroundings.

Buon Ma Thout - a small town in the central highlands known as the "home of coffee". Some lovely scenery not often seen by tourists but the downside is they are exploiting elephants to now offer "rides" on them in the endeavor of taking every dollar they can.

C - Contract. Can only say this is hardly worth the paper it is written on. You are strictly enforced to hold up you side of the contract but the VN people ignore what they are meant to uphold. Very much a one way street which I will expand upon in my next post with some explcit examples.

Cho - Vietnamense word for market and there is one in every town no matter how big or small. Some are great and give you an insight into the local life and the foods available in that area. Be prepared for some gruesome sights - especially if you venture into the meat section. As for the tourist markets like Ben Thanh Market in Saigon - shop at your peril - they are severely overpriced and not a all willing to bargain. Pushy salespeople who are just wanting your money.

D - disgusting local wine. Vietnamese pride themselves on the local wine particularly that from Dalat. Having tried several I just gave up and searched for imported wines at highly inflated prices or ended up drinking beer.

Dalat - A lovely city set in the mountains often used as a retreat from the heat. Known as both the "City of Flowers and the "City of Love". It is the major flower growing region for Vietnam with millions of roses produced each year. The city is surrounded by pine forests and some beautiful waterfalls. You can see the French influence in the architecture. For the younger generation it is regarded as a romantic place and there is a "love park" which we found to be the height of kitsch but clearly popular with local people.

E - Electricity and electrical goods. A word of warning both of these cost far more than you would pay in a Western country despite your wages being 4-6 times lower than the same country. Hence they are horrendously expensive. What makes ti worse is that the goods are shoddy and very poor quality. for example I have gone through 3 electric kettles in the space of 10 months. The concept of honoring a guarantee card or offering a replacement/refund is unheard of. Worked out that my electricity bills for a 2 bedroom apartment was more than my family and friends pay at home for a 3-4 bedroom house.

F - Frustration has been the all pervading emotion over the past year. Nothing is ever easy and the Vietnamese appear to go out of their way to ensure they make any process much more complicated than it needs to be. Shopping in local supermarkets you are treated like a common criminal. Firstly you are forced to lock your handbag in a locker at the entrance and only carry your purse/wallet into the store...then you find yourself followed around by shop assistants who observe your every move.....all thought of leisurely browsing for goods goes straight out the window and it becomes a race to see how quickly you can get what you need and get out of there.

Friends -- the plus side to this experience. I have met some amazing people from all parts of the globe whose collective experiences have ensured many evenings and nights of absorbing conversations, fun and parties.It is these people who keep you sane, give you encouragement to keep going when you feel like packing it all in. I will be staying in touch with many and feel that some of us are destined to meet again somewhere in the world

G - Gratitude. That is what I feel towards the people who have become my friends here. It is this group of people who have kept me going in what has been one of the darkest years of my life. Mentally and physically I have reached my limit.

H - Healthcare. This is a developing country and you cannot forget it. The local hospitals are a cesspool of potential lethal infections. At least there are a few "international" hospitals who are attempting to improve the dire situation. Having had the misfortune to be hospitalized in one of these hospitals I know firt hand that they have a long way to go before any international standards are going to be met. Medical insurance is an absolute necessity and DO NOT depend on what is being offered by your employer - as I have learned to my detriment it means nothing and they simply will not even cover what is clearly stated in their policies.

Hoi An - The only place in Vietnam where I felt truly comfortable and welcomed. Having been here 6-7 times now it never fails to allow me to relax. The old part of town is a delightful mixture of many architectural forms and the lanterns at night are a sight to behold. If I was to ever return to Vietnam it would be to come back here.

I - Inhospitable is the only word I can find to describe my dealings with the local people. The first shock was finding that local staff at work simply look straight through you - no hello, no acknowledgement, they do not respond to emails unless they want something from you, they laugh in your face rather than answering any questions. Should have known after our experience at the opening ceremony of the University when we sat down next to 2 Vietnamese teachers...who promptly stood up and said in perfect English "we are not sitting here with these foreign teachers" and moved away quickly. At the time we laughed it off not realizing that this was to prove to be the pervading attitude we were faced with on a daily basis.

J - job. It is virtually impossible to relay what this has been like. Not at all what I was told before I came. Thinking it was simply a case of adjusting I persevered but it did not improve. The only reason I stayed was because I had signed a contract and despite their flagrant abuse of the contract morally and ethically I could not walk away from something I had signed up to do.More on this is my next post.

K - Karma, Kismet. I know in the journey of life I came here for a reason. I am yet to find out what the true purpose of this year was. Professionally it is a year lost in my career. My knowledge and skills have not been utilized and yet so many people say to me it is exactly those skills that this country needs. Perhaps the timing is wrong. I do not know.

L - Lying. I have never met so many people who will blatantly lie to your face without any qualms. The tourist brochures say that Vietnamese are friendly, welcoming people but this has not been my experience. I have been lied to so many times that I never know when they are telling the truth. They try to excuse it by saying it is about "saving face" and we don't understand the culture. ********. I had the same saving face issue in China and other Asian countries but they will try to find a way to fix a problem....not here...they have no interest in helping you one bit. As long as they are getting what they want from you then it is all OK to them.

M - Motorbikes seem to be synonymous with Vietnam. They are everywhere driven with reckless abandon. Traffic rules appear to be non-existent except when the police need to make some extra money by :fining:" people for traffic offenses real or imagined.. Unfortunately where we were forced to live really necessitated the ownership of a bike if you were going to have any freedom of movement. It was not a risk I was willing to take. Riders just drive through red lights, turn into bust streets without a backward glance and what they can carry on a motorbike has to be seem to be believed!!

Mui Ne - a seaside town which many raved about. Personally I found the beach to be very poor (perhaps spolit by my wonderful Australian beaches). However it does make a nice break away and is one of very few spots that can be easily reached in a weekend. The red and white sand dunes are worth a look and a small fishing village nearby allows you to see some of the colourful local fishing boats.

N - bguoi nuoc ngoai - Vietnamese for foreigner. Trust me you are never allowed to forget that. They will point at you and laugh, ignore you in shops and the street and generally make your life hell. I can count on one hand the number of locals who have showed at least some modicum of what I would call common courtesy.

Nha Trang - seaside town that is well worth a visit. One of the few places where you can find fresh seafood at reasonable prices. some great snorkeling to be found and some beautiful scenery.

O - Obstructive, Obtuse Outrageous. These are the words that come to mind when I think of the Vietnamese people when you have to live and work among them on a daily basis. coming here as a tourist I did not see this side of the people. The smiling face is a mask that is quickly revealed to be a hoax after a few days. See other entries for examples of this.

P - pickpockets. similar to bag snatching it is rife in Saigon. There appears to be an underlying assumption that all foreigners are rich and therefore it does not matter. Sadly I have to say it is so rife that Saigon is the only city on Asia where I do not feel safe either day or night.

Pho - probably the national dish of Vietnam. It is a noodle soup consisting of broth, a few herbs, lots of green leaves and either meat or chicken. It can be eaten at any time of the day and is available everywhere. A cheap and easy meal option.

Q - Quan - Vietnamese for restaurant. They seem to be everywhere but after the first few weeks I quickly came to realise that they all served the same food. Personally I do not enjoy the food of southern Vietnam so my diet has been very westernized whilst living here. Most of the food contains huge amounts of MSG and is very greasy. Traveling further north I found the food to be of much better quality. Basically from Hoi an to the north I eat local food...anything south of that and I am looking for the nearest western restaurant.

R - resentment. Again this is my personal experience but this is what I have felt from the first week. The Vietnamese people are yet to acknowledge that they need the expertise of foreigners if they are to develop.I suspect that this is what China was like 20 years ago but the Chinese have embraced the need for development and the expertise that foreigners can bring them to achieve their goals. Chinese value and appreciate what we can do with them - Vietnamese are just surly, resentful and remind me of children who cannot get their own way.

S - sexism is alive and well in Vietnam. Women are truly second class citizens. What made it worse for us is that we were working under a western management structure and were still exposed to this. Those involved know that their behaviour would not be tolerated in any shape or form in a developed country which probably explains why they are staying put in this country where they can get away with it.Being put down and belittled for expressing an opinion as a woman is something that belonged in the 19th century.....time to move on.

Saigon - often the gateway for tourists coming to this country. My advise is to see the major sights over a few days and then get out. It truly is the underbelly of the country where you see the worst of everything.

T - taxi scams. Yet another common way to rip of the foreigners. Tampered meters mean paying exorbitant fares. Although reported often in local newspapers the practice continues. If you are going to live here it is best to find a driver who knows you will become a regular if he treats you right - the possibility of a regular income removes the need to rip off for a one time fare.

Thang Chin - September - the only month of the year I have learned in Vietnamese. The month that was the beginning and will be the end of this nightmare year.

U - Unusual foods. Not sure if it is the food that is unusual or the English translations on the menu but we have seen some beauties. For example "Fried Beer', "Tofu Windsurfing", "Non cooking side of God" and " The Gravity Green Pepper"

V - Visas. What should be a simple streamlined process is in fact a circus of extraordinary bumps and hoops most of which are totally unnecessary. You get a visa on arrival to start the process - heaven forbid you don;t get the right invoice because otherwise they will not reimburse the cost despite what your contract says.. Then you sign a contract and get your work permit sorted for 12 months.....but they only give you a 6 month visa!!!! CRAZY. It is then your responsibility to try and remember when it is due for renewal and if you do not hand your passport in 2 weeks beforehand you have to pay $$$$$. Only to find that your next visa is for 3 months and another visa renewal process will have to be undertaken. A quick call to the Ministry of Labor informed me that this was an internal process with my employer and that they wish me to write a report which I will do and provide copies of all the receipts for the "additional payments". Seems to be that this is just another money making scam and then they only give you a visa to the last day of your contract..... please do not feel welcome to stay and see the country...no get out...we don't want you here a moment longer...that is the message loud and clear from my employer.

W - War is a sensitive issue but I am sick to death of hearing about the Vietnam War (or the American War as the locals call it). This happened a generation ago but they simply do not seem to be able to let go and move on. To this day there is still a provision to allow students to get into university on the basis they lost a relative on the war....no matter that they do not appear to have the cognitive capacity to deal with the level of study.In direct contract a visit to Cambodia just over the border and you see a very different attitude. The Cambodian people were subjected to many atrocities in far more recent times and yet they are steadfastly moving forward and demonstrate a resilience that is astounding.

X - Xin Chao - Hello in Vietnamese. I say it to everyone I meet, trying to be friendly but am all too often met with dark stares and no response. It is disheartening as most of my travels in Asia it is the one thing that has enabled the beginning of a friendly exchange of smiles, gesturing and a feeling of being welcome.

Y - Yearning that things will improve. I do believe this country has the potential to develop if they grow up and accept they cannot do it alone. Every country has had to depend on outside expertise at some point, embrace new ideas while maintaining important traditions. I hope that Vietnam can find that at some point in the future.

Z - Zilch, Zero...there is nothing more to add. Vietnam - nice place to visit, not for living and working here.

Bye for now. xx