Leaving Hanoi by bus we traveled through the Red River Delta to the infamous HaLong Bay, in the Gulf of Tonkin. Arriving in Halong Bay City we were quickly taken to the docks where we boarded our "junk" for our overnight cruise around the karst islets. Where does one start trying to describe this place.........Majestic and mysterious, inspiring and imperious, surreal and stupendous: words alone cannot do justice to the natural wonder that is HaLong Bay. It is easy to see why HaLong Bay has twice been recognized by UNESCO as a World Natural Heritage Area for its exceptional scenic beauty and outstanding geological and geomorphic values.

A distinctive feature of Ha Long Bay is the abundance of lakes within the larger limestone islands complete with extensive limestone caves and grottoes. The bay includes some 1,600 islands and islets, forming a spectacular seascape of limestone pillars. Because of their precipitous nature, most of the islands are uninhabited and unaffected by a human presence. You could spend many weeks just going around all the islands viewing the ever changing scenery but unfortunately we only had 2 days so for me the highlights for us were;


Sửng Sôt or Surprise Grotto on Bồ Hòn Island, is one of the finest and widest grottoes of Hạ Long Bay. Climbing the steep ascent to the grotto, the way is covered by trees and foliage, and consists of great paved stone blocks. The grotto itself is divided into 2 chambers the second one is HUGE. I'm sure you could get 1000 people in here easily. At the deepest point of the grotto, a "royal garden" appears with a clear pond and a seemingly fascinating landscape of mountains.


Thiên Cung Grotto,Legend has it, that beautiful young lady named Mây (cloud), caught the eye of the Dragon Prince and he fell in love with her. They were betrothed, and their wedding lasted seven days and seven nights in the very centre of the grotto.

Situated on Bồ Hòn Island is also the Luồn Grotto. Here the cliffs stretch vertically out of the
pure blue and smooth water. At the water-level, an arched entrance leads to the grotto, just at
the base of the island. Passing through the pretty entrance, you come across a tranquil
round lake, surrounded by luxuriant trees and high dangerous stone walls. Monkeys run to and
fro across the mountainous slopes.

Dau Go grotto is on Driftwood Island. Seen from afar, the entrance to the grotto appears to be blue, and has a shape similar to that of a jellyfish. After 90 steps up the island, the entrance is
reached. The ceiling of the grotto is about 25 m. Hundreds of stalactites falling down from the
roof of the grotto look like a waterfall.

Our junk was very comfortable and the meals were delicious. All the staff on board were friendly and I spent considerable time with one of the Vietnamese girls doing language exchange!!! We walked around the junk and I'd say what things were in English and then she would tell me the Vietnamese name. It was lots of fun and we both learnt some new words in our second languages. Watching the sunset and then getting up early to watch the sun rise were perhaps for me the major highlight of a most enjoyable trip. It was at those times I felt like I was the only person around for miles and it all felt so serene.

As with so many things there are down sides. I found the "commercialism" somewhat disappointing including the rather garish lighting in some of the caves, the hundreds of camera-toting tourists pushing and shoving so they can get the "best" photo and the sheer number of boats where we docked for the night. So much for peace and serenity....we were bombarded with music from one of the nearby "party" boats which detracted from the experience. Ladies in large rowboats float between junks when they are stopped, selling everything from candy to chips to alcohol which unfortunately seems to result in the littering of the waters with papers and bottles.....taking away from the back to nature experience.

Perhaps the biggest threat to this magnificent area is tourism...or more specifically souvenir hunting tourists who will gladly buy the many items for sale made with precious coral and limestone from the caves and sea. It seems bizarre that people are supporting an industry that is destroying that which bought them here in the first place!!!

I am so glad that I have witnessed this idyllic area before it will possibly be spoilt. Much like the Da Nang area I do fear that with Vietnam's thirst for tourism they may just destroy the beauty that many of us come to this beautiful country to enjoy.