"Kia Ora" - This is Maori for Welcome, Hello, G'Day, Thank-you and all them kind of greetings... Rotoroa is at the heart of New Zealands Maori culture - which seemed the perfect place for us to learn and understand a little about the Maori people, cultures and traditions. The Maori people are really focused on their sacred land,not surprising considering their land is very unique. The whole atmosphere in Rotoroa stinks of Sulphur, not surprising why it has the reputation "The smelly city". We decided to follow our noses and visit some of the sources of these smells... Firstly visiting 'Wai-O-Tapu Thermal Wonderland' - a 'taonga' (treasure) of Ngati Rangiteaorere (the local Maori people). Famous for its Lady Knox Geyser which erupts daily at 10.15am, its Champagne Pool and Bridal Veil Falls - and which holds its reputation of being New Zealands most colourful natural volcanic area. We were really impressed with the Wonderland, it was a huge area (The largest area of surface thermal activity in the Taupo volcanic zone), which is literally covered with collapsed craters, cold and boiling pools of mud, water and steaming fumeroles. There was a large Mud Pool - The largest in New Zealand, filled with violent and spectacular boiling hot mud. We found it quite funny that quite a few people were taking samples of mud to use as their own free Mud Packs - a good idea but it looked far too much effort!! We got to the infamous Lady Knox Geyser just before 10.15am - A guy did a running commentry right next to the Geyser.. and in the meantime he 'gave mother nature a helping hand' and put soap in it. The geyser started to froth very shortly afterwards, I was a little concerned for the guy stood right next to it!! After a couple of minutes the Geyser started to erupt, reaching heights of up to around 15 metres!It was awesome to see, and really fascinating to undstand exactly how it happens. The Champagne Pool was really beutiful (if thats the right word!) - the spring is the largest in the district. The pool was formed 700 years ago by a hydrothermal eruption. Its surface temperature is 74 degrees celcius. The minerals contained in the water are gold, silver, mercury, sulphur, arsenic, thallium, antimony etc and deposited in the edge of the pool, which created a bright orange colour - spectacular! Bridal Veil Falls were really impressive.. partially coloured by the overflow of the opal pool, these falls were bright green!! The different sights around the park were amazing, and so different from one another - even though they are all in such close proximity to one an other. A few that also stood out were the 'Sulphur Mounds' - large mounds of sulphur that were actually formed under water and were exposed when the area was drained in 1950's, the 'Inferno Crater' - which has the bottom of violently boiling mud, and 'The Devils Bath', a large ruggidly edged crater adjoining the bush line with an amazing bright green pool. The colour is a result of excess water from the Champagne pool mixing with sulphur and salts.. and changes from greens to yellows depending on the light. The Wai-O-Tapu (Sacred Waters) was an amazing experience!!

We thaught it wouldnt be right to visit Rotoroa without going to a Spa, so we checked into 'Waikite Valley Thermal Pools, Springs and Spa' - which luckily for us had a campsite that you could take advantage of free use any of its outdoor pools anytime. Waikite Valley was a great experience to see Rotoroas 'living waters'.. as it is the home of Te Manaroa Spring, the largest single source of 100% PURE boiling water in New Zealand. Every pool in the spa is filled with a constant source of fresh geothermal water, ensuring a pure bathing experience!! We really enjoyed the Pergola Pool - 38 to 39 degrees celcius waters overlooking the river and valley. It was so quiet when we was there that it felt like our own private tub - so so relaxing!! However Chris couldnt take the temperatures for too long, that is when the cool pools came in handy!!

One of the things that Chris and I couldn't leave without doing was a traditional Maori Hangi and concert. Since Rotoroa has a large Maori population it is reputidly a great place to see this. Since we are suckers of good deals, we decided to do a combo - the Tamaki hangi and concert and get Hells Gate Thermal resort (the most active in NZ) free!! Bargain. Hells Gate Geothermal park was very different to Wai-O-Tapu Thermal Wonderland, Holding the reputation as the 'Beast' of the region of geothermal parks due to its steaming fumeroles, violent boiling mud and general rough and rugged nature of the park - it was sure not the bright and beautiful types of activity like Wai-O-Tapu. I think Hells Gate is so different to other Thermal Reserves in Rotoroa as its heat source is only 1.5 to 2 kms below the surface, whereas the other thermal reserves' heat source is approximately 10+kms under ground - a little bit scaryer walking round Hells Gate. Not surprising that all the different thermal activities going on in this area are given names like 'Devils Cauldron','cooking pool' and 'devils bath'. The areas that stood out for us were the 'mud volcano' - the only one found in NZ - cone shaped and instead of lava it discharges mud and mud bombs, really cool to see!! The Inferno Pools were pretty awesome, (and violent!!) made up of 3 major pools, and with an averge temperature of 105 degrees celcius and 110 degrees celcius. Kakahi Falls was amazing, the largest HOT waterfall in the Southern Hemisphere. It looked so inviting, at 40 degrees I felt like I could have just jumped up and had a bathe!! Although I doubt that would have been a good idea! It was actually here where the Maori Warriers used to bathe themselves from the blood of battle - the sulphur water was very good in that it acted as a salve to the wounds and scratches that the warriers recieved during war. The first Europeans used the waters of the waterfall for the purpose of healing - due to its many minerals etc. It is in Hells Gate that people do the Mud Baths, however since Chris and I did this in Israel we decided to give it a miss as we have already spent a bomb here!!!

The Hangi and concert was amazing!! Such a good laugh and different experience - it was like being in a live theatre show - really really interesting!! The whole experience was a journey back in time to a pre-European lifestyle experience of customs and traditions.. whilst ambling down the pathways of the rediscovered village as it comes alive with the sounds and activities ofd tribal songs, spiritual stories and dance. The bus picked us up at the Tamaki office in Rotaroa, and for the whole 30 minute duration of the journey the bus driver told us a little about the Maori culture and the greeting that was going to come when we arrive at the Maori Village. The driver had us all pretending to row the 'Waka' (boat), and making all the tribal noises etc - it was hilarious!! In order for us to have a 'proper' greeting, the driver asked for a volunteer to be the tribal 'chief' who was to be intelligent, good looking and brave.. so an Israelly guy, Lamal, volunteered. We were all told that during the welcoming we must not smile or talk until the presenting of the gift (Fern leaf) to the chief.. which was all part of their tradition ! Whilst off the bus we stood waiting for the Maori warriers to come out.. with the three 'cheifs' (from each bus) stood before us all. After a tribal song from one of the Maori women, the warriers came running out doing the traditional Haka - with tongues out, eyes open wide and the traditional weaponary, clothing and tattoo's. It was amazing!! They got right up close in the chiefs faces etc, pretty intimidating!!! After a welcoming we were to follow them through 2 gates into their village. The village was really cool, small huts with Maori designs on them - and in each hut was the Maori people doing a different activity.. one was weaving, one was keeping a lookout and one was preparing and preserving the mean in stilt huts ready for winter etc - all with a fire burning around them for warmth... as you stood before them they would explain what they are doing etc! Chris and I got chatting to two Maori warriers, one started talking to me in Maori and presented me a Fern Leaf, apparently a gift for being beautiful - what a charmer hey!! After time in the village we got braught into the concert hut, where they told a story of two lovers from 2 different tribes coming together - they sang tribal songs, dances, myths and legends.. it was a real experience. After the concert I got a 'Maori kiss' -(the rubbing of noses) from one of the Maori guys which was amusing.. and then headed into the hall for our Hangi meal. The tables were set up for us.. huge tables with bottled water - a really nice atmosphere. The buffet hangi meal was HUGE!! It was very much like a roast dinner, Sweet potatoes, carrots, and lots of other vegetables and meats! Traditionally this is ground cooked, we got this explained after our meal. The entertainment was really good,even the chef's sang (which makes a change!!) - and to round off the night they too did a Haka dance for us (the one the New Zealand rugby team do!) ! The cultural performance was truely an amazing and unique experience.. one we will never forget!!!