Up early to beat the heat. We drive into the National Park and head off on what became a 15 km bushwalk up the Carnarvon Creek Gorge. Along the way we saw some fantastic aboriginal rock art, pretty waterfalls, massive cliffs and rock formations and best of all, a cool shady spot called the Moss Garden. Here the water is filtered through the sandstone and emerges in a constant trickle to support moss beds and fern banks. We filled our water bottle with water that fell as rain 1,000 years ago.