So here we are in Bolsena which is a huge inland lake after an easy walk of only 14 miles. Every farmer in Italy is ploughing today and every field is full of tractors turning over the soil. It's a big area for growing wheat but also lots of olives. So it almost feels like autumn here apart from the warm sunshine. Tonight our B and B is a 15th century palace. Hugely surprised when Francesco let us in and explained that his home was also open to the public and we could have a tour later. It's just wonderful and I feel like a contessa apart from my smelly walking clothes. Our bedroom is huge and stone floored and it's very romantic, I hope !