Today after the orphanage I ambled into the centre, alone this time, so as to soak up the culture and generally act like a tourist. The streets of Guadalajara are warm and friendly with cafés blasting out cheerful spanish tunes, children playing in fountains, and not a trace of that London philosophy that eye contact should be punishable by death. In fact passers by frequently wish me good day or say hello, even bless you (salud) when I sneeze.

First stop, the grande cathedral. Sitting inside I'm struck by the hushed compilation of awe and prayer, contradicted entirely by the bustle of city traffic wafting in from outside. The high ceilings are painted crisp white embellished with gold and the gigantic pillars fold into the ceiling in waves and arches. The front of the cathedral is awash with stained glass windows depicting biblical scenes and from the front most pillar hangs a banner which reads "Jesuscristo. Ayer, Hoy, y Siempre." As I sit and watch a little girl in bright pink shorts and a matching t-shirt say her prayers I can really understand the beauty and community that religion offers.

A little walk on to the next square, plaza de liberation, where, fittingly, a protest of some sort is taking place. I'm intrigued by a small building to my right which reads 'Templo St. Augustin'. As it turns out it's some sort of plaza devoted to music. On the bottom floor are posters advertising gigs and also a library, deserted apart from me and the receptionist. The books are all music based and a few are in English so I sit for a while and brush up on my knowledge of Woodstock. On the top floor an orchestra is rehearsing and a few people are loitering on benches basking in the sun.

Further into town still is the 'Institution Cultural de Cabanas which is free admission today. It's a stunning ancient architectural shell to more modern works of art and photography and has a beautiful courtyard aligned with benches for anyone in need of a rest which, after a two hour walk, includes me. The Museo Regional de Guadalajara will have to be saved for another day as right now all I'm after is a refreshing agua fresca for the walk back.