...Piotr finds my gloves under his mattress - the expedition is saved and so are my spirits!...He cuts his finger on his great Gerber knife and dresses the wound with some band aid but because we don't have much, he secures it with duct tape - mountain medicine!...we leech some more on the kind Lanko wifi without paying and I get to chat with T some more :))...we pack up camp and set off once again for Camp 1 (Canada). After some struggling (tired from yester...

...we get up relatively early and taking advantage of good weather (first really sunny day!) we manage to climb the first high camp (5060 m asl), leave a lot of food there in a bag under a rock (a "deposit" ;)), climb a little higher up on the way to high camp 2 (5300 m asl) and then back down to base camp running down an enormous scree slope :); happy and satisfied but headache and all over tiredness again;...we meet some Russian tourists with a local guide carr...

...we wake up after this stay's coldest night (0.6 C in the tent, around 6C less outside) and in good spirits and are happy to see it's sunny again!...we plan to leave for camp 1 with equipment after lunch; unfortunately a snow storm comes out of the blue before we can leave and so the plan is postponed until tomorrow;...we order another pizza (last nice meal - is what we keep telling ourselves each time we pay big $$$ for luxury meals here) and spend our...

...we get up, have breakfast and set off for an acclimatization hike to the nearby Cerro Bonete (5015 m asl)....after some hard going through snow and ice (penitentes) fields we make it to 4900 m asl and get some rest. Seba pushes forward alone (we will need to talk about this later on - we need to make the summit as a team or turn back as a team)...Seba is becoming quite annoying: leeching on our stuff without sharing his, bragging about his high mountain experi...

...we find out that it's been 40 years since a summer this cold and wet had been recorded here; some people in the base camp have been waiting for an attack window for 8 days now....I battle some light headache, we pitch out tents and we go for a small acclimatization hike with Darek, a Polish guy we meet....we do the medical check up (two lady doctors this time, Piotr flirts with both) and we pass but my pressure is through the roof (155/100!)...we are lazy ...