Happy to be venturing out of Naples & with my leg somewhat healed we were off to Pompeii today. To get there it was a rattly ride on a clapped out suburban train for about 30mins. Once we bought our tickets we had to purchase a map as they don't give you one for free unless you get an audio guide- no wonder there are reports the mafia are involved in the Pompeii restoration as it certainly seemed like a money making enterprise! Once we entered the ruined city (and city it was, covering a massive area) it was like stepping back in time with the remains of temples, baths & the large central forum area. We occasionally listened in on the miriad of tour guides walking around with groups but generally just followed the map to the main sites & tried to stay out of the sun. The city had two large amphitheatres where gladiators once fought and some vineyards & orchards had been replanted. The streets were very rough to walk on, with higher sides for people & grooves in the lower part for carts. In the baths and some of the houses there was paintings which had survived on the walls & carved pictures on the roof. In the red light district some of the clearest paintings were the 'menu' paintings in the entrance to the brothel. After almost 3 hours of seeing how life was 2000 years ago we fell into chairs at the small cafe near the station for some more pizza. We both agreed that these pizzas were better with a few more toppings like ham, salami & mushrooms. Rattling back to Naples we relaxed in our air conditioned room and around 5.30pm I headed off for a wander to explore more of Naples & see if things improved. After another 6km of walking around the 'sites' I can conclusively say that the rest of Naples is as much, if not more of a s***hole than the area around the station. Everything is graffitied, all the streets in the old town are dark & dirty and every time you try to cross the road you are taking your life in your hands. I needed a shower to wash the grimy feeling off once I finally got back to the hotel. For dinner we just went to a touristy restaurant nearby for some cheap (€5 a main) pasta with clams, gnocchi and slow service.