This morning we drove from Dubrovnik to Mostar (the cultural capital of Herzegovina). For the first hour of the drive it poured with rain! We went through 3 very uneventful border crossings (to get in and out of Croatia and Bosnia and Herzegovina a few times) - they barely took a second look at us, let alone our passports! Missed out on a potential 6 passport stamps! We reached Mostar at about midday - it was very interesting to see. We could see lots of war torn buildings from the war in 1992, and with grey skies and the spitting of rain, it was a bit of a dreary welcome! Thankfully the town had a beautiful backdrop of mountains to lift its spirits! When we got to the hostel, we had our leftover veggies for lunch and then went for a walk around the town - there were lots of destroyed buildings around but the people were very friendly. Smoking is allowed inside buildings though so walking through shopping centres or going into restaurants and cafes wasn't particularly pleasant. We stopped and had a treat from the bakery (Calvin had a börek and Kate had a donut - interestingly, we saw a few lamingtons in some of the bakeries) and then it started to pour! It bucketed down and we got soaked! We sheltered under a shop front and as soon as the rain lightened up a bit we walked into the old town which was pretty magical. We walked over the Stari Most bridge (the original bridge was destroyed in the war so it was rebuilt) and saw the beautiful aqua coloured Neretva River - famous for its beautiful colour and for being so cold! As we were pretty cold and wet, it was then time to head back to the accommodation to get dry. Later on in the evening we headed out for dinner back to the old town (it was no longer raining!). We had found the top place to go on TripAdvisor but, like so many restaurants in the old town, it was closed, so we took a chance on one of the few open restaurants and we were happy with our choice - Sadrvan (turns out it was number 2 on TripAdvisor). The one down side was it stunk of smoke inside because smokers smoking inside are everywhere you look! But the food was yum - Calvin had Cevap (skinless sausages in something similar to Turkish bread) and Kate had a salad (and loads of the free bread that got provided). They even gave us a postcard when we as a free gift!