The first sounds we hear are swallows and sparrows tweeting. The sparrows are mating now and the males puff up and posture before doing their duty.
The sun comes up behind the big mountain which is just a wispy silhouette in the early haze but as the sun climbs the shape and shadow gains in definition.
When we arrived we saw a pen full of goats, thinking it was a goat farm, but as Ali wanders around taking photos it become clear that pigs are the main animals.
Being Easter we expect heavy traffic and possibly limited stopovers so Ali rings an ACSI site near Paestum. They have space and only charge €15. It's 19C by the time we set off down the track to continue our journey south.
Passing through Valmontone traffic is almost gridlocked due to market day. Cars actually stop mid roundabout to rush across to the veggie stall! But it all keeps moving with no heed to normal road rules. A small car edges out, Nick gestures to carry on and is blown a kiss by the passenger.
The motorway starts light but soon gets busier as we head towards Naples. At one point we can see the abbey on top of Monte Cassino, scene of one of the hardest fought battles in WWII.
Large volcanic peaks loom ahead and to our right is Vesuvius. We pass Naples and stop at the toll near Salerno. 122 miles costs us €14.20
All but 4 of the remaining 30 miles is dual and except for a roadworks detour we find the site, Camping Lido di Salerno easily. The owner, who speaks very good English and is very friendly, leads us to our pitch. Once he has got the Austrians on one side and the Germans the other to move their stuff, we can park. We have a block wall to the front and a van either side, all packed in.
Exploring the site and area doesn't improve things, the 'accessible' beach has a ramp that would put a Land Rover in low gear, and when we go for a walk outside it is unbelievable.
The sea and brown beaches are separated from the road by a string of disused camping parks, run down bars undergoing renovation, the odd apparently open pizzaria and crumbling, barred off terraces. The foot/cycle path is littered with everything from used condoms to a dead animal [species unidentifiable]. There is a play area with the mandatory rubber matting but people have managed to break plenty of beer bottles there.
Our routine weekend standstill will not be here, we'll move tomorrow. This is our second go at Italian seaside [after deplorable Ancona in 2014] and our last. Whether it smartens up for summer, who knows?
Back on site Mary*Lou has cast a shadow across the Austrians' pitch but they are still sunbathing wedged in a tiny patch between their caravan and car.
Cabaret this afternoon is by a French couple loading a motorbike onto a trailer. The method is too detailed for this space but it takes a full 45 minutes, gloves, wood chocks, a stepstool and a winch. Plus 9 ratchet straps.
It's not all bad though. Nick has been out and can relax after a few long busy drives and Ali can use the washing machine to catch up on laundry. On the way back Ali stops to look at a Fiat Topolino when the German Owner starts chatting. He knows the Falmouth area well and was good friends with Charlie Mann and Ralph Berryman when they ran the military vehicle museum. Small world.
So we're not downhearted, it just promised to be much better, but if you want things to go to plan, don't visit Italy!

CD of the day: Eagles - Hotel California
Dinner - steak and chips