This is our last full day here in Chile. Joan woke up early to a beautiful view of the crescent moon and planet over the water.

We had planned to go to Cocao to see a place called la Muelle de las almas - the pier of souls. It is part of Chiloe's mythic culture. When people die they have to pay their passage to the next world. If they don't have the money, they end up in a kind of limbo on the west coast. It's meant to be an atmospheric place with the rain and the mists rolling in off the pacific, and the noise of the lost souls howling. However, we have been told that on a hot day, with clear skies, it's not the same and that there is a particularly voracious type of fly that lives that way in summer that can give you quite a few nasty bites. So instead we opted for a run down the coast to the picturesque fishing village of Chonchi. It was a pretty place with wooden buildings and the main excitement in town was the dogs which barked and ran after any car that passed. It was notable that the most noticeable of dogs had only three legs!

We stopped at a waterside restaurant to eat cake and drink strawberry Jugos (fresh fruit and syrup) in a quaint café.

We then continued south through very European farmland - Chile is a country of extremes from deserts in the north to glaciars in the south, but this was lush, verdant rolling pastureland with cows and sheep.

Finally across we reached the village of Quielen where there we great views of the mainland and particularly of Volcan Chaiten. When we came on our honeymoon it was overcast all the time, and though we sailed along the coast, we were blissfully unaware of these snow capped beauties.

On the beach we could see piles of seaweed. They were being raked, dried, wetted with sea water and then being out into bags by a family group.

On the way back, we passed an unusual restaurant, like a beached boat.

Turning back, Kevin dropped Joan off at the LAN airline office to print off our boarding passes for tomorrow. (We don't want to get bumped off again!) When Joan got back to our hotel, there was no sign of Kevin's car and she thought he might have got lost, but he had gone back to the office to take her hat and shawl which she had left in the car. We'd crossed each other along the way.

Dinner was a hotpotch of what we have left: some spinach and ricotta ravioli, with tomato and pesto sauce and some tinned mushrooms and asparagus. Chiloe has been a lovely place to spend the last days of our holiday.