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Kevin and Joannie on tour
In order to find accommodation this holiday we have used Booking.com. What it gives you is the price approximately in Sterling or sometimes, annoyingly, in US Dollars. We don't know if we could change the settings as it would be good to know the local price. On one or two times on this holiday we have been charged a little (not much) more than we expected. There is also the issue of Chilean tax which some places apply and is about 19% extra. Some places seem to charge - others not. Had we known what to pay locally we mostlikely wouldn't have got in the pickle we did this morning. Yesterday we went to the local ATM to find out it did not take VISA cards. However Joan counted up all our money and calculated it into Sterling and estimated the bill for three nights would be 130 thousand Chilean Pesos. This we had. When Jennie came to collect her money, it turned out the price was 150,000 Pesos. We hadn't got enough money and she only took "en efectivo" - cash. Joan carries an emergency Mastercard Credit Card to cover such situations and said she would go to the ATM, about 10 minutes' walk away. On the way to the machine a man hung out of his car to ask for directions. Luckily it was to the ATM! ATMs are not just open on the street here. They are often in porches with doors that you swipe your card in the lock to get in. The man had got there first and Joan watched as he shouted at the machine which was talking back to him, and eventually shook it in despair. It seemed to be functioning when Joan went in, but it still wouldn't hand out money. Embarrassed Joan went back to Jennie who said obtaining money was often a problem and that she would accept Dollars. We had no Dollars but we did cobble together enough Chilean small change and Euros to pay her. Note to selves: carry more cash in Patagonia. After filling up at the petrol station (credit card), we headed the 54 kms back to Puelche to catch the ferry which would link us to Puerto Montt. It costs about £8 to cross and they only accepted cash! The choice was either stay another night and hope we could get some money out tomorrow when the Bank opens (uncertain) or do the 200km plus detour back up the Reloncavi estuary as a detour. We did the latter. We have already said what a new and bumpy road it is, but were amazed to see a full size coach picking up folk all along the way. We also realised the colourful boxes we have seen in the fields were bee hives. We didn't take lots of photos as we were quite fixated in getting to Puerto Montt. Driving through Ensenada, young men tried to wave us into their restaurant car parks, holding out menus as we drove by. Approaching Puerto Varas, virtually the first thing we saw was an ATM, and then another, and then... Puerto Montt isn't far and we took the back road via Alerce. The old railway track runs across the road several times and though trains haven't run in years here, drivers still proceed with enormous caution. (We noticed this too up in the Big North where the nitrate towns are long gone but drivers still stop at the train crossings.) We found our hotel relatively quickly as it is on the front, almost next to the hotel we stayed on our honeymoon. It is quite a posh hotel with a rack rate of about £200 which we paid £57 for. Though it seemed empty, we were still given a room without a view. We were both shattered so we looked at Trip Adviser and found a well rated Italian nearby. It was open all day Sunday and initially we were the only people in it. Joan ordered a pizza with aubergine. A few minutes later the chef came back to say they hadn't got any aubergines. Earlier in the day Joan had posted on Facebook jokingly saying she had possession of the only aubergine for miles around. It seemed this was true. The waiter looked at her strangely as she explained she had an aubergine in her hotel room. It was an early night and still partially light when we retired.
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