After breakfast we told Javiera that we would be leaving and explained that she was fantastic but we had not liked the owne'rs attitude. We also gave her a bottle of wine to show there were no hard feelings. She said we could stay an extra night azs there were no extra bookings or even at her house if we liked. She gave us her email so that if we ever visited the island again, she would put us up. Similarly we said that if she had ever the opportunity to come to ...

Thank God for Joan's sister and Facebook. We awoke to a notification from Christine that the strike was over. Javiera, the administrator at the cabana, advised us to go to the LAN office. We did so but in our own time. On the way we stopped at the bank to collect a card Joan had left in the cash machine. The lady behind the desk pulled out a whole pile of them so it seems it's a common enough mistake. At the LAN office there was a queue of about a hundred people....

As we didn't have to return our hire car till mid-morning, we got up somewhat bleary eyed about an hour before dawn and drove the 15 km or so to Tongariki where the 15 restored Moai are. There were a few other cars already parked and about 30 people there to see the sunrise behind the Moai. It was quite spectacular as the sun streamed between the statues. Everyone was silent. Fairly soon after, the whole site was deserted and it was lovely to be alone there a few...