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After a reasonable amount of sleep for an overnight bus journey I woke at around 6am and the change in temperature was quite dramatic: from needing thermals and fleeces leaving La Paz to a warm summer climate heading into Sucre. The bus took an extra 2+ hours and we rolled into Sucre at around 9am. First thing I did was strip a few layers of clothing and then ask for directions into the city centre, I decided to walk in and after about 40 minutes I was into the centre. The first mission was to find Condor Trekkers - the hiking company I had been in contact with over last few weeks. This proved quiet difficult as the map on my iPhone had me at their old address and none of the locals new they had moved. After two hours of walking in circles, asking every shop owner and getting thoroughly pissed off someone was able to point me in the right direction. When I arrived at the cafe/tour agent I was met by the lovely Lidia with a huge smile and a welcome kiss - my bad morning had just turned wonderful. Unfortunately we still didn't have enough people for the 3 or 4 day hike but we were both confident we could find some willing participants. Lidia set me up with some wifi and made me a warm cup of tea exactly what I needed. I then headed off in search of a hostel or cheap accommodation; there are only two Couchsurfers in Sucre and both own hostels so I decided to go visit them. The first was a German guy that owned a German cafe/hostel/tour company and was offering two nights free for Couchsurfers - this turned out to be a scam and when I arrived a German lady advised me it wasn't the case and a dorm was about $10 - very expensive for Sucre. Feeling scammed and quiet annoyed at their cheap tactics I left in a hurry. I then made my way to the other side of the city where another Couchsurfer called Omar had his hostel - on the way stopping to price a few very basic residential accommodations. Luckily when I arrived Omar was at his hostel and straight away I liked him, lots of energy, happy person and the hostel was full - unfortunately there was no bed for a Couchsurfer but there was one bed left in the dorm so I jumped on it. The price was reasonably cheap and the hostel had wifi and a nice kitchen, however the dorm room was crammed and full of other people's crap. After unloading my things I said hello to a few other backpackers - who were all drinking and starting to party at 11am - exactly the kind of backpacker I try to avoid but each to their own. Omar told me about the BBQ they were having in the hostel at night but to me the price seemed a bit steep so I decided to give it a miss for now. I headed back into the city for a walk around and I was quite impressed by what I saw; small but busy city, beautiful weather, lots of parks and not too many tourists. I found the central market and wondered around looking at various stalls of snack foods and goods before making my way upstairs to find some lunch. Upstairs there was about 50 stalls selling various Bolivian cuisine from pork dishes to chicken to fish - the typical dish from this region being Mondongo - a slow roasted pork dish in a thick red and spicy salsa. Although I wanted to try the Mondongo I decided against it purely based on the fact of my previous weeks stomach problems and went for a stall where the little old lady had been somewhat polite to me compared to the rest of the less friendly stall operators. I went for the fried chicken and was able to have it served with a plate full of fresh salad and a spicy salsa and a couple of fried bananas - it was a little expensive for me but it was incredibly delicious and filling. After thanking the lady and promising to return I was off to suss out some other tour agencies about hiking in Sucre. At ons agency I ran into a couple of guys who were also looking at doing a three day hike - after we got out of the agency we all agreed Condor Trekkers was the company to go with and the fact that if we all went then the tour would certainly go ahead. Next stop was back to the Condor Trekkers agency where I met Randall - a young Australian guy who had set the non profit organization up 6 years ago. It was incredibly inspiring hearing his story and the difference he was making to these remote communities here in Sucre. He was a really good bloke and nice to have someone from home to talk about travels and life outside of Australia with, he showed me his motorbike which I admitted I have had an obsession with since a child and we hung out all afternoon like old mates. The other two guys I had met earlier showed up and booked the three day hike starting in one days time, so thinking I would just have to wait a day and do a day less hike I agreed to join them. However Randall said b***** it we will send you out by yourself the first day and I could meet up with the others the next day - incredibly kind of him and he also agreed if he couldn't get an English speaking guide he would send Mark the Australian volunteer out with us to translate. Hardly believing my luck I put my money down and was ready for tomorrow to come. My mate David from the USA that I had met in the jungle was also in Sucre so he come down and met me at the office and also discussed with the agency the possibility of doing the three day trek starting in one days time. We hung out for a bit and then went for a wonder around the city before I headed back to my hostel to pack a few things and eat some dinner. When I got back to the hostel the BBQ was in full swing and people were getting rowdy so I packed my things and had a shower before making my way out to socialize. For dinner I had brought some chicken (knowing the hike would all be vegetarian food) and a few eggs - to boil up and take with me tomorrow. The kitchen was well stocked so I was able to cook up a mini feast of fried chicken and vegetables with utmost ease. A nice young couple from Denmark came into the kitchen and we started talking about travels and what not and next thing you know 5 hours had past. The Danish couple had a wonderful energy about them and were really excited talking about their experiences here in Bolivia which made me excited and gave me many new ideas for the next few weeks of travel. People like this couple are the reason why you stay in a hostel, not for the smelly, crammed and dodgy dorm rooms but for the chance you meet fellow travellers that inspire and remind you the reason you travel. I really feel so blessed to have met them and selfishly (an old habit) at one point i was thinking crap I need to bail and finish cooking and eating my dinner but Why? People like this are rare and our conversation gave me so much and hopefully I was able to share with them as much as they were able to share with me. They had this really cool travel type journal idea where they had taken a Danish pack of cards (in Denmark Ace is referred to as Es?) and have some of the people they meet choose a card that suits their personality, write their name, country from, country met and something about themself. I chose the Joker Ofcourse purely based on where I want to be in life, striving towards being more relaxed, less regimented and being the person always having a bit of a laugh and fun. I really liked this card idea and the best thing every time you play your reminded of the great people you have met on your travels. Next thing we new it was midnight and I had to be up at 4am so we said our goodbyes wished each other luck and were off to bed. I spent the next hour organizing my stuff in the dark (not to wake the person sleeping in my dorm) and for the simple reason not to annoy everyone early in the morning. Oh and Christmas Day in Denmark is celebrated on the 24th of December - some tradition I have never come across.
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