Was gagging for a pee nearing Pathankot, so thought I'd be typically Indian and have a waz up against the wall round the corner from the main street... I got caught and got fined 50Rs! To be fair there was a big sign saying no peeing in Hindi above me (a bloke did warn me I was going to get into trouble!), but the relief was worth it!

Catching the next bus was a smoother ride because of the roads, but the driver was in such a hurry overtaking and using his ridiculously loud horn, which starts giving you a little tingle in the head after about the first half hour.

Booked myself into a backpacker hotel, with a very friendly owner (was better than the other hotels the cycle rickshaw tout was showing me, one place stenched of diesel). I also get the opportunity to compare itinararies with fellow travellers and have the satisfaction of relieving my verbal diahorrea and speaking in english! I have been complimentented on my Hindi... I can only improve!

The Golden Temple and it's surrounds are very peaceful and tranquill in comparision to the mentallity outside. I couldn't believe they had fish swimming in the water, probably due to the fact the water was so clean! Didn't make it inside, but soaked up the atmosphere and marvelled at it's elegance.

Made the trip to the border crossing which was the strangest ceremony I've seen. It's a bit like changing of the guards at Buckingham Palace... Exactly, wow! There was a lack of Pakistani support on the other side, but read in the paper that there was a terrorist attack on a police academy 12km from the border that morning...

I had already booked my overnight sleeper train to Hardvar for that evening, so left with fuelling myself with aloo parathnas and porridge! For dinner I hear you cry, their porrige was nice!