Heading to Cape Leveque-very excited!! The road in was terrible-biggest corrugations ever, washouts, ruts and not very much space to drive on. It took us 2 hrs to drive 80kms-and the roads finally won one. We snapped a spring on our camper-then the real fun started!!! We all piled out of the car on the side of the road, and Craig and John got to work. Luckily my hubby is totally organised-and had a spare spring!! There was a few moments when Barb and I exchanged glances, mostly when the sledge hammer was being used! After about half an hour of watching Barb and I decided to go check out our accommodation options. We piled the 6 kids into the Monk car, and left the dads to fix the camper. We drove about 500m up the road and found sealed road!! We were so close. We also had some phone reception, so a quick call had secured us a site at a camping ground in an aboriginal community. We messaged the boys the location, and took of with the kids and Monk camper for the camp site. Initially Barb and I were excited about our little adventure , but as the road grew more narrow, and the day turned to evening- we began to feel anxious about taking off from the boys and looking for a place to stay. After an hour of negotiating the road, we managed to arrive at Gnylmarung. Still feeling a bit unsure-but doing a good job pretending all was fine in front of the kids. We were greeted by the traditional owner of the land ( Alfons) and his off sider. They were great, offered us a satellite phone to call the boys, assured us we were safe and helped us find a spot to set up Monks camper. One of the other campers got a fire going for us-and we had decided we would settle in and hope the boys could find us. Of course they arrived -about 1/2 hour later..... I was so relieved and kept hugging them both! How funny-how much we rely on each other!!

Next morning we woke to the most amazing site ever. We were in a beautiful bay, with 2 other campers, beach and rocks as far as we could see. The water was bright blue and crystal clear-we scored-what a gem of a place. Barb and I went up to the house to pay and got talking to Alfons. What a lovely, gentle man, living for his children and grand children, setting up the camp ground so his grand children could have a future on their traditional land. He made us both cry as he told us about the tragic suicide of one of his daughters just 4 months ago. He was so proud of her, showing us the booklet he made for her funeral, so sad, to see such a broken heart.

We ended up having 4 nights of beach life here. Fishing, snorkelling, and exploring. The community dog-Brown Dog, wiggled her way into our hearts. Where-ever the kids went, so to followed Brown Dog. She became their friend and protector and the kids enjoyed caring for her too. At one stage the kids were playing on the sand dunes, then swimming when they got too hot. I went down to see what they were up to, found them sharing their food and water with Brown Dog. They had even built a shelter -using sticks and their beach towels-to keep Brown Dog cool!! I think she will be forever remembered. Of course it has enthused everyone's interest in getting a dog, and we spend many car trips talking about dog names, responsibilities and where our dog will sleep.

We spent many long hours walking over the rock pools, at low tide-which happened to be just before sunset. We found octopus, many different types of fish, coral, anenomies, crabs. We even saw a turtle, clams, moray eel -just amazing. While searching for these creatures, the sun set over the water-spectacular sight.

Craig and John didn't have much luck fishing the first day. One of the guys who lives in the community took another camper out fishing in the boat, and came back with loads of fish. That evening they came to our camp and delivered fresh tuna and mackerel. A few moments later, Alfons wife came over with a bag of 5 mud crabs!! Couldn't believe it-what a feast. We did chilli crab-really dad!! The crabs were missing 2 legs each-but so tasty.

Alfons's wife gave the boys the heads up with where to fish. So the boys took off to catch dinner. Barb and I followed-but didn't end up finding the boys-instead we came across a lovely secluded swimming spot-surrounded by ancient reef. Bizarre to see fossilised fan coral sticking up on the rocks! Unknown to Barb and I (as we waited patiently for the boys to return), Alfons's wife had found Craig and John and was showing them how to fish. Craig described how it went-
She sat down on the edge of the rocks, using hand line, and mud crab legs (that's why the crabs she gave us were missing legs) as bait. Said she was fishing for 'blueys'. She threw her line in-within 10 minutes she had hooked a big bluey! Unfortunately she didn't land it-as it cut off on the rocks below her-she was a bit annoyed-but will be back another day. The boys ended up catching heaps-stripeys, tusk fish, bream and cod-another seafood feast!

We could see sharks, whales and dolphins, turtles and manta rays while fishing-just amazing how unspoilt the area is.

We asked Alfons if we could let off our fireworks (bought in Darwin-but not used) -he was excited, and they came down to the beach while we let them off. Kids loved it-especially the smoke bombs, and parachutes. It was nice to sit on the beach and chat with Alfons and his wife-lovely people. Already planning how to go back!!

So we reluctantly said goodbye to Gnylmarung-to brave that terrible road back to Broome.....