Wow, this photo doesn't do it justice.

We were warned that every taxi driver in Bali would try and bring us somewhere else, and weren't disappointed. "It's closed for religious reasons." "It's not Menega you want, but Montega." "I don't know where the one you want is, but...." All of these tried by the same driver, who claimed to know no English!

And you get there. And then you see why. The front to the street is unimpressive and indistinguishable from its neighbours. Out front, hundreds of coconuts are being stripped of their husks for fuel, and the air is black with smoke. Then you walk through the kitchen to get to the beach. Menega's seating is packed with every nationality. Everyone else's is empty.

Granted the service is shocking, but it's tricky for me to tell how much of it is them or a little bit of London left in me.

But it is the view which slays you.