

Kuta, Indonesia
Surfing, day iii.
Well today I improved more than any other, but for a thoroughly weird reason.
I had a completely different instructor, Anthony, who spoke with a strong American accent. He was quiet a bs composed compared to his predecessors, Agun (call me Gun) and Jonathan (Jo-Jo). His gentle solidity and patience worked like a charm, so 8 complimented him on it as we left the water. His reply? He laughed and then looked serious. "Don't tell anyone. I'm a ...