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Roraima Trek: 22/06/12 - 27/06/12
Day 1
We woke up in the small town of San Francisco. At Breakfast we met the other members of our group. A Puerto Rican girl called Mariell, 4 Venezuelans 2 guys called Sam and Brian and 2 girls called Alexandra and Maria. Everyone had these big 60ltr backpacks and then there was Stevie and I with our 15-20ltr day bags. Only time would tell if we packed correctly.
With the 9 of us formed and about to embark on an adventure across the open grassland of the Gran Sabana and up Roraima (2810m) one of the Sabana's trademark table mountains (tapuis) it felt like a scene from Lord of the rings.
The start of the trek we had to drive off road to a small Indian village of Paraitepui to meet our porters and begin our fellowship... With all of us clean and fresh we started our trek with Roraima mystically waiting for us in the distance. The first part of the hike was steep hills and hot sun. It didn't take long before we were feeling the burn. We stopped off at several rivers for water which was clean enough to drink. By mid afternoon we arrived at Rio Kukenán where we stopped for lunch. We had to cross two rivers in our socks. It was the only way everyone could grip the rocks with their feet. ( I say 'everyone' Stevie still managed to fall in) By early afternoon we had crossed two rivers and walked 4 - 5 hours and reach Rio Tek, our first camp. Our guide warned us of the 'Puri puris' a small fly that was practically invisible, it would bite you, drawing blood then create a constant itch. The whole group underestimated how persisted this b*****s are. By morning we were all covered in hundreds of these bites. That evening we played cards, watched the stars and prepared for our first night camping.....
Day 2
Early next morning I had to relieve my continuous stomach ache. I couldnt go in the night in fear of sitting on a snake. Antibiotics only working a little.
We ventured off on a constant uphill trek over boulders and crossing more rivers for another 3 - 4 hours where we reached base camp. Arriving at 11.30 we decided to stay here the night and make our push for the top tomorrow. With time to kill, we admired the scenery, sunbathed, washed in the river and got to know the group a little more with talks of home. Hiro showed us how to write our names in the various Japanese languages.
By night fall there were hundreds of fire flys sparkling in the grassland around us. Another night under the stars we looked for satellites and watched the lightning storm in the distance.
Day 3
Breakfast was pancakes, strawberry jam and cheese (they put cheese with everything).washed down with a cup of rosy-lee we were ready for our push to the top. Hiro, Stevie and I headed off first as we packed up the quickest. The first part of the trek consisted of 65° inclines which we had to climb. The grassland faded behind us and we entered the jungle. Alexandra quickly caught us up and the four of us headed upwards together over rocks and intertwining tree routes. Around half way we stopped on a ledge that gave us panoramic views of the Gran Savana, our previous camps and a grasp on how high we had climbed in a short time. we were so close to the top. I decided to make a speedy push to the top. Climbing up one of the waterfalls rocks would fall away from my feet as I pushed up. After climbing over hundreds of large boulders and within 30 - 45 minutes I was at the zenith of Roraima. I had time to relax and take a few photos before the rest of the group arrived. Hiro was about 30mins behind me. Quickly followed by Stevie. Then around an hour later Alexandra and Alfredo arrive. Within 2 hours we were all at the top! The scenery is a moonscape sculpted by the wind and rain, with gorges, creeks the mist accentuates a Jurassic utopia.
We make camp under the side of a semi sheltered rock overhang and have lunch before taking a short walk to the tepui water holes.
By early evening the group relaxing with dinner watching a beautiful sunset on the neighbouring tepui.
By night fall we are all chilling and winding down with coffee and tea. Until Stevie spots a scorpion in our camp. Our guide said it is very poisonous. This freaks me and Hiro out. While Hiro beats it out with a stick (the scorpion now in it's defence position) I frantically search the group with my head torch in case there are any more. Mean while Andreas now thinks now would also be a good time to show us a huge spider on the rocks behind us.... Awakening to the imminent dangers around me I head to bed!!!
Day 4
We venture into the labyrinthine plateau for the day. For hours we are surrounded by lifeless rocks forming unique shapes. Some defying gravity. We finally reach El foso (a crystalline pool in a massive sink hole). It creates an oasis within the moonscape. We stop for lunch here. Sam and Alfredo go for a swim in the El Foso. From there reaction and brief time on there. It was clearly freezing.
After lunch we headed to Punto Triple this is a trio-border crossing where Venezuela, Brazil and Guyana all meet. It was a good feeling that Hiro was taking our picture while he was in Venezuela, I was in Guyana and Stevie in Brazil. We managed to get our photos done just before the rain set in. Luckily it was only a drizzle and we made our way to Bahia de Cristal. This was a remarkable valley that reminded us of something from 'A land before time'
The surrounding area was a desolate place, but this valley was bursting with life. It had various flowers, trees, streams, lakes, insects and a vast amount of quartz crystals covered the ground as we entered.
As soon as we left the rain really set in. It was merciless. Within minutes we were all soaked through and it didn't stop. The mist set in and the visibility was poor. With nothing more to see it was a long, cold, uncomfortable, tiring and hard trek back to camp. Round 9k later and just as night fell we made it back to camp. With everything wet and us being cold. We all retired to our tents for the evening. The porters brought our dinner (Stew) to our tent as soon as that was finished we went to sleep. It was only 5.30pm!! But we were exhausted!!!
Day 5
Muscles aching from the past 4 days we were ready to head back down to base camp. Climbing down the waterfall was cold and difficult because of the rain and with Stevie's knees hurting it was a long climb down, but we still made good time. By late morning were at base camp. With Stevie safely down the mountain and the group reformed at base camp we had a bite to eat and set off to Rio Tek camp. I didn't want to hang around so Stevie, Hiro and I made a quick start. Within 10 minutes and with distance between us, we were walking alone across the vast Sabana. For hours I didn't see a single soul. I was convinced I was lost and was imagining all sorts of scenarios and how I would make it back or where I would camp.
After a while camp Rio Tek was in sight! I made it. I created a washing line to dry my clothes and refilled my bottle with water. About an hour later Hiro arrived and Stevie quickly followed. Then the Venezuelan group. We were all beginning to unwind when Alfredo come out of the bushes with Andreas to say we were camping at the next camp. We had to cross the river. With the rain the water was high and the current strong. While Alfredo tightened a rope across the river as a guide we were back in our socks making the difficult crossing. The rope splintering in our hands as we gripped. Stevie got extra attention. Maybe because of her track record of falling....
With the group safely across the river we were back at camp, tired, hungry and ready to settle for the night. In our tent we could hear the familiar conversation between Hiro and Andreas at their tent. It went something like this.
Hiro 'can I come in'
Andreas 'No'
Hiro 'Are you naked?'
Andreas 'Yes'
With the longest walk behind us and to hide from the Puri Puris, we settled for the night with some dinner and rum.
Day 6
By morning the whole group were feeling the aches and pains. Wanting to make an early start Hiro, Stevie and I quickly set off. Within 10 minutes of us leaving we came across our first snake. It was small only about 30 - 40cm long and about the thickness of an adult thump. It was orange and had a black head. After a few snaps from Hiro's camera it quickly scarped. Maybe it was the weird rubber duck noise it made each time he pulled the trigger.
Before long Andreas had caught us up. We all stopped at a river to rest and drink some water. Andreas offered us some 'Sparkles' their version of skittles. They tasted so good. It was the sugar we needed.
From the river Stevie, Andreas and I continued back while Hiro waited with Alfredo for the rest of the group. With the finish in sight and two huge hills ahead of us I put my head down and pushed to the finish, leaving Stevie and Andreas with their bad knees to follow.
By mid day the whole group was back and tired. Ricardo was waiting for us in his truck. As the weather was nice and we got back early, Ricardo wanted to show us some waterfalls in the Gran Sabana...
Jumping in the back of the truck we headed back to San Fransico. Washed, Changed and Refreshed we were on our way again....
Ricardo drove us to the waterfall we saw before our trek. In the light it was huge and powerful. He told us that we would be going behind it. Which sounded like adrenaline fun!! It wasn't one of those waterfalls where you could simply walk behind and take pictures. We had to climb down the rocks into the river, back over some more rocks and down behind the waterfall. We had to swim under rocks and climb some more to make it across. It was an amazing rush. We then had to tackle it again on the way back. And yes Stevie did fall here too.
Back on dry land we ventured to another River that has several waterfalls. We jumped off one and the other was like a natural slide.
After relaxing on the warm rocks we headed back to San Fransico for dinner and Rum....
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