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Well we started off slowly this morning but headed down to the Nourlangie (Nawulamdja) art site by 830. We managed to sit in on the ranger talks and were thoroughly impressed with the knowledge we gathered in our short time. If you come up to Kakudu I would highly recommend taking the time to make it to the Ranger talks. I think I learned more about aboriginal kin and law in a morning than I ever have in 42 years. I suppose it was good having a white ranger with twelve years experience putting it into our (European) terminology. The kin system (and the rules that govern it) is something that is ingenious and has geneticists and anthropologists taking note. But like the guide said he could only tell us a kindergarten level of the theory behind it and he puts his own knowledge at about grade 3. There are so many layers to their law and kinship that no wonder it takes them so long to decide things - a real eye opener . Anyway the background was great and hearing the stories behind the artworks was even more inspiring. The artwork in Kakadu is definitely some of the most detailed and interesting I have seen.
JB
The afternoon saw us visit another indigenous art gallery (rock art site) at Ubirr (North of jabiru). Again we joined a ranger talk, this time traditional owners of the country. Their passion to share their culture to us was inspiring. They talked about how their grandfathers were once put in chains and taken away but now (putting the past aside) just like to have people come and learn about their culture and let their stories continue and survive. They are a very generous people who are very welcoming.
We also watched the sun set over the wetland (Ubirr borders Arnhem Land) which was beautiful.
Seeing we got back to camp late we spoilt ourselves by eating at the camping grounds bistro. Now after a busy day it's time for bed- listening to the resident Curlews stalking around in the night.
KB
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