After Catania we decided we had had enough of big cities and their noise, dirt, rubbish and graffiti, so we headed for Agrigento where we knew there were some Greek ruins. We tried to avoid traffic by taking back roads and staying off the main roads, it didn't really work. At Agrigento we found a caravan park with a cabin and good Internet were we booked into for two nights. After settling in we went for a walk to the harbor for coffee and cake. The next day we caught the bus to the ruins, our first non Roman ruins. We were not disappointed, they were brilliant and to think they are over 2000 years old. There was some new statues erected that we had two thoughts on, but they were well done and fitted in. We stayed for quite some time before catching the bus back to the park and going for a walk along the beach to see what there was. Agrigento had been a nice little town, but we went on to Alcamo to see a great Roman theater and an even better Greek temple that had never been completed, they don't really know why. We stayed that night in an apartment in a caravan park not far away on the coast. It was OK, but in the morning we had lost power and we had no hot water. We gave Palermo a wide berth and went direct to Milazzo, to a caravan park we had found on the net that said it was open, but when we arrived we could only find one guest staying in a camper and he didn't know where the owner had gone. We set up the tent this time as it was quite warm and clear, and our budget was taking a hammering! We had a nice spot under gum trees overlooking the Mediterranean sea. We found dinner that night in town for €7, bargain. Milazzo was by far the best town we found in Sicily. Then it was back onto the mainland, this time we headed up the east coast toward Crotone, but only made it to a small town near Catanzaro. Here we stayed in a small hotel with 25 rooms, it was owned and run by a lovely older lady that did everything herself, and she was open 24 hours! From here we had our biggest day in a long time, 420ks, all the way to Foggia, to a nice B&B run by a young lady that went out of her way to find us secure parking for the bike. She wasn't too happy about us leaving the bike outside, neither were we, it looked a bit questionable. The next day on the advice of a friend we headed out onto a peninsula to Vieste. Here we found the best scenery we had seen in Italy, there were cliffs that went all the day down to the sea, forests, views out over the Adriatic Sea and a lovely quite road that wound its way along the coast. The only down side was that it started to rain and with the water and leaves from all the trees it was a bit slippery, but lovely to look at. It cleared in the afternoon and we stayed in another B&B near Vasto. This too was lovely with a very nice owner and views to the sea. The only down side was we had trouble finding it. The east coast was indeed proving to be nicer for us than the west coast. Now we are in a B&B that is more like an apartment with breakfast included. It is in a quite little town called Falconara, not far from Ancona.