'Twas a cool night, only 13C when we wake, but the sun rises brightly lighting the hills in a way we didn't see in yesterday's greyness. As we are getting sorted to leave a few groups of powerful motorbikes blast past on the road behind us. Then a few sports cars and Ferarris pass by. We use the service point and say goodbye to Giovanna and thank her for a wonderful stopover. As we drive away two Police bikes cruise past, then more Ferarris and it dawns on us...

This morning dawns cool and grey with odd showers. Ali reaches through the cab curtains and sets off the alarm. The shrill beeping in the quiet Trapanese countryside frightens the donkey who brays loudly for the next three minutes. We are due a standstill day, and with iffy weather, full services at €10 and a view that is so beautiful we decide here is as good as anywhere. The free wifi is reasonable, allowing us to upload some photos and research some futu...

Last night we spent over an hour online seeking bus routes or taxi charges to go in to Palermo centre. With nothing to be found we decide to not trouble Palermo with our tourist coin so this morning we check out. The 3.5 miles to the motorway takes half an hour of more elbows out driving and the we are on our way north east through some lovely scenery, with sea one side and mountains the other. We pass the stone obelisk memorial to Chief of Police Carlo Albert...

The thunder from the waves never stops but by morning our brains have tuned out the sound. A cheery goodbye from the parking attendant and we're on our way to Palermo [once we twiddle around the congested one-way streets out of Cefalu. We decide no toll or motorway today, just bimble along the coast and hillsides to reach Palermo early afternoon. The road surface is surprisngly good quality and most of it has a 50kph limit. The sea is still brochure blue and ...

Cloudy and warm this morning. The sea looks more blue with the sun rising and the Aeolian islands are faint shadows floating on haze. As our first wild camp on Sicily it worked out fine. We head back to the motorway and pass the signs we should have followed for the FA yesterday. It's a boring 50 mile run along the A20, much of it underground and some tunnels are unlit, but it only costs €6.00 and we reach Cefalu around noon. It takes another half hour roun...