Last night we spent over an hour online seeking bus routes or taxi charges to go in to Palermo centre. With nothing to be found we decide to not trouble Palermo with our tourist coin so this morning we check out. The 3.5 miles to the motorway takes half an hour of more elbows out driving and the we are on our way north east through some lovely scenery, with sea one side and mountains the other.

We pass the stone obelisk memorial to Chief of Police Carlo Alberto Dala Chiesa, whose assassiation by the mafia, at this point in 1982, started the nationwide rebellion against their powers.

After a few motorway miles we exit for fuel and drive a meandering country road to the archaelogical site at Segesta. Entry is normally €20 but we are admitted free with wheelchair.

Starting up the steep gravel path we are overawed by the wild flowers. Yellow daisies spread forever and tall yellow fennel flowers stand out against blue sky. Smaller patches of orange, blue white and pink create patterns gardeners would strive years for.

As we climb we start to see the Greek Doric temple, dated around 430 BC. Fourteen columns long by six wide it was never completed as there is no evidence of a roof but the entablature and pediment are complete. The round columns taper to the top and there are traces of a carved frieze. It is said to be the finest Greek temple after Athens, but Segesta isn't blighted by the crowds and scaffolding found at the Acropolis. It is a beautifully [almost] complete temple in a natural bowl, and very peaceful. The wind hums through the columns, but on very windy days it is said to sound like organ pipes.

We |return to the visitor centre for a light lunch then start the climb up the tarmac road to see the theatre. Apart from the climb it's a walk in Paradise. The same flowers meadows hug the hills around us, in places humming with bees. Lizards scurry for cover and sandstone outcrops form perfect rockeries. In the distance huge jagged peaks fade in the haze while nearer hillsides are peppered with vineyards, orchards and flocks of sheep. Shaley white paths cut through the flowers making direct routes for determined hikers but we stay with the road. At the top it plateaus out with ruins of mansion houses, then Nick has to wait while Ali takes the final steps up to view the semi-circular terraced theatre.

After a few photos we begin our descent, now with superb views over the valley to the temple. The sun is warm but the wind is cold and we are glad of a coffee when we return to the car park.

Thoughts turn to tonight's stop. On the way in we passed an agritourismo, the same we were given a flyer for in the carpark. It's only 5 miles away, has a restaurant and parking for campers.

We soon arrive, after a brief hold up for sheep crosing the road, and get shown the parking, complete with electric, water and chemidump, all for €10. Ali goes to check accessibility in the restaurant and is told it is closed. [sad face].

She buys some wine and then Senora taps away on her phone - google translate - shall I make you cold antipasti. Si Si Senora!

Half an hour later Senora, mother and son all come to the van with a tray of food. 2 platters with 5 types of antipasti plus a bowl of olives, a bowl of sheep cheese and bread all for €10 total.

We sit in the cab with our nibbles and wine, watching the lowering sun chases shadows up the craggy mountains. At the top of one hill is a cylindrical volcanic plug with the cone eroded away below it. [Geography - physical. 2nd Year Bodmin Grammar]

If yesterday was Sicily's urban filth and unfriendliness, today has been the Sicilian springtime of the travel books.

Tonight we are contented and happy campers!

CD of the day - Great Driving Songs

Dinner - Trapanese home style antipasta with rustic wine