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Our quiet car park worked, but there's no lie in as a lorry arrives at 07:00 and unloads a digger which then trundles down the road with tracks screeching and rumbling.
Eager to avoid another yesterday, we check a few options for tonight before setting off on the S284 which loops west and north of Mount Etna.
The sun is shining as we climb towards Bronte and everywhere there are vines and pistachio trees. Soon after we leave Bronte we find a layby with a head view up to the mountain so we stop and study it over a sandwich lunch. The peak is still patched white with snow which glistens in the sun. Below the peak are the back ridges of previous lava flows, variously bare, or with sparse vegetation depending on the year of the eruption. There are a few auxiliary cones then further down there is green grass and trees and vines. All the time a white cloud pulses over the crater.
As we drive on the road passes lumps of lava flows sprouting with wild flowers. Nut trees and vines grow from the black rock terrain and terraces and walls are built in drystone style from football sized lumps of lava. Halfway on our route is Randazo. The closest town to the volcano, it's known as the lava town as it is constructed almost entirely from the black and grey material. Although it has escaped every eruption it was badly bombed in WWII. We find a carpark and Ali goes for a quick look in the centre but doesn't venture far as it's a warren of alleyways, but she finds the church that nestles between two lava columns, its dome about the only colourful structure.
From Randazzo at 2500ft the road descends through even more rugged lava fields with big pillars and mounds and columns, many acting as black canvas for red poppies, yellow fennel and daisies and bright green vines and pale prickly pears. In places we run near the Ferrovia Circumetnea, railway that runs a 114 km trail around the base of the mountain. All the time we have views of the volcano that created this wierd and wonderful landscape.
Early afternoon we arrive at the first choice of our options for tonight, a farm campsite at Linguaglossa. We park looking up to Etna, now starting to hide in a bank of clouds. The owner, who looks like an unpolished Tom Jones, makes us coffee and shows Ali the ameneties. First we put to good use is the washing machine.
It's blissfully quiet here and we decide to turn yesterday's bad tricks into a bonus. Missing Syracuse then driving so far yesterday has given us a day in hand in our [variable] schedule. That means after some busy days and not quite peaceful nights, we can stay tomorrow to relax and recharge.
Now, if only Etna were to have a bit more action like it has over the last month...
Dinner: steak and wine
CD - yes it's back as Snoopy doesn't need the Aux plug: Dire Straits - Sultans of Swing
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