We watch the temperature rise to 28 as we are getting to go into the Old Town at Dubrovnik. N+G set off on their motorbike and we ask reception to call us a taxi, which arrives in a few minutes.

Some of the route is familiar from our previous visit and Andro, the driver, tells us what he can with his limited but friendly English.

We get dropped off at Ploce Gate which has no steps, unlike the more popular Pile Gate which has many, and arrange for Andro to collect us at 16:00. N+G arrive almost immediately and we head over the drawbridge into the cool alley between the high stone walls. A few yards more brings us into the main street.

The roadway has been polished by millions of feet to a glass-like shine and the surrounding building are tall, biscuit coloured stone with wooden shuttered windows. In places there are still bullet and shrapnel marks in the stonework and roadway. Dubrovnik is a popular cruise port so we timed our visit for a day with lower numbers and although there are 4 ships in the harbour they are all up-market ones with small capacities, so although there are plenty of people it doesn't feel crowded. Looking up from the main street there are scorres of narrow stairways leading to higher parts of town, and tucked in other narrow alleys are shaded cafes and bars.

We find Ali's pigeon-perch where she was splattered with bird pooh on our last visit, but there are seemingly fewer pigeons today. At this end of town is a large stone cylinder with domed tiled roof, which is a well, with spouts of mineral water from the limestone surrounding the town. We watch a tour guide fill his bottle and drink some, saying Croatia is rich in mineral water, and contradicting cruise companies' advice that the water is polluted. Whatever the truth, loads were drinking and all of the water we've taken on or used in Croatia is so soft it feels creamy on your fingers.

Lunch is taken in a side street with plenty of shade before we wander out around the harbour.

It seems the knitting and lace-making women are no longer here, but based on our previous sighting they might have priced themselves out.

We leave N+G on the beach and amble once more around the town with the stone radiating heat, bemused by a group of Japanese tourist singing something to the tune of Winter Wonderland, then we get ice-creams before going up to the taxi rank. Andro arrives on time and drives us back.

We head down to the campsite beach and Ali has a swim, then we decide on an early supper at the beach restaurant.