It is noticeably colder up here in the mountains, and because the valley is so steep it takes time for the sun's rays to reach our cabin.

We had worked out that there are two separate spas in the area – a cheaper one, Valle Hermoso, and a more exclusive one at the top of the road where there is a ski resort. We decided to visit them both and extended our stay here to three nights, after all the third night would be New Year’s Eve and it might be more difficult to get a room elsewhere.

The roadside had plenty of new looking cabanas and bars as we headed up hill. The road was being reconstructed – from gravel to Tarmac. All over the place the Chilean government seems to be investing in infrastructure and the economy – whether in roads, water supplies or the new fish market at Conaripe. They announce what they are doing on huge billboards next to the projects.

There was a large wooden gateway announcing the spa. Because we are staying at Rucahue hotel, we received a discount which made the ticket £3.50 each,

On the side of a mountain, with snow and volcano visible above, there were three pools, though one was shut for maintenance. Initially we were the only folks about. To access the pool you had to run under a shower that was teeth-chatteringly cold. The pool was 40 Celsius and even warmer close to the inlet. After about half an hour, a member of staff shouted "musica!" and Latin American songs blared out.

Though it was warm in the pool, there was a stiff breeze which meant it was cool on the side and made you want to go straight back in. The water was grey and sulphurous.

Having been on our own for about an hour, a coach turned up and decanted a crowd of people, mainly older ladies but some families as well. The ladies in particular like talking and taking the mickey of each other. By now the music had changed to an everlasting medley of 1980s hits.

The sun was at its hottest and as we had been there nearly three hours so we drove back through the roadworks, and the huge Chilean machines drilling their way into the mountainside or bulldozing the carriageway. They even had created a quarry where they processed their own gravels on site. We noticed some of the road workers were women.

At the Cabanas, a new guest had turned up. She was by herself and asked Kevin to help her light her cooker. She explained that she had a cold and was wearing coat and jumper. Nancy, who runs the cabanas, had already lit her wood burning stove.

We ate a dinner of spinach and ricotta ravioli with tomato sauce from our “dry” provisions, but this evening sat inside with the window open. A couple of dogs played in the yard and occasionally came looking for scraps. Then the same coach that we had seen at the spa pulled up and decanted the same folks we had seen at the pools. They had come to eat a late lunch at the Club House at the front of the complex. After about an hour and a half of very loud music they left and the place returned to quiet. It was getting cooler and darker so we closed all the windows before going to sleep.