We anchor off 'Split' marina under a very pleasant forested mountain, which appears to divide the old city from the new. Facing us are modern high rise buildings, which is very different to the iconic old buildings of Split in the tourist brochures.
We have arranged to meet our friends the Pelicano's who are sailing their catamaran in Croatia. We have invited them and their 4 sailing friends for dinner tonight.
We have a very good agent here, Luca. He has arranged a guide for a walking tour of old Split. We meet 'Malina' at the Riva, (waterfront promenade). Malina explains that split is the second largest city in Croatia after the capital Zagreb.
Our first impression is that it is spectacular. It achieved prominence when the Roman emperor Diocletian (AD 245-313), built his huge retirement palace here. It is 31,000 square meters and took 10,000 slaves to build it. He was notorious for his persecution of early christians. Our tour starts with the Palace. Even though the palace walls and gates are still intact, the structure was modified in the middle ages and is now a labyrinth of streets packed with people, bars, shops, apartments and restaurants. It has so much atmosphere as many palace and old temple columns and structures are still intact.
At 12 noon, the city puts on a small play at the palace gates, where the Roman soldiers dressed in costume, announce the entrance of a Roman emperor and his wife. He greets the large waiting crowd with mock distain, dressed in toga and head wreath, and provides an entertaining beginning of our visit to the city,
We wander the city streets with Malina, who explains not only the history of Split, but the culture and habits of the Dalmatian people. One item that stands out was the numerous high quality book shops.
There are 220 buildings within the old palace, and some 3000 people live within the palace walls. Split has a total population of 150,000 people, with the average income is around $10,000 per annum. Most things appear to be quiet inexpensive for us, including designer shoes bought by Kath and Janet, for at least half price than the rest of Europe.
We have a great lunch on the waterfront, at the 'Konoba Atlantida', recommended by Malina.
We arrive back on BP to learn the Pelicano's have arrived. Nunzio and Assunta with their long time friends Poly
and Alan ( Greek ) and Eva and Dominic,(Italian). They anchor near us and will come over for drinks and dinner at 7.15pm.
Well, what a great dinner party we have.
There are 12 people in high spirits, relating stories of their adventures. We finish dinner with singing, dancing and liqueurs on the back deck. Garnaut decides for a final and unnecessary drink on the Pelicano's boat. He has one too many and ends up fully clothed in the drink. He sleeps on deck on his return and is not very well the following day.
Thursday, Paul and MB are up early to visit the noisy crowded fish market in Split. They are looking for fresh sardines for tuna fishing back at the island of Brac. They cost 20 Kuna a kilo, so they get 8 kilos, ( $25 all up ). There are plenty of other fish, so we buy some fresh calamari for lunch.
MB and Bernie visit the fine art museum. We find it is not only a fine building but a very good collection of Croatian art, from the 13th century to today. The modern art is of a very high quality.They then move onto the museum dedicated to the very famous Croatian Sculptor ' Mestrovic', who created some of the best sculpture in the world, in the early 20th century. In 1945, he went to live in the US. The museum is a monumental palace that was his summer home. He renovated this renaissance building with an art deco finish and furniture. This houses his sculptural collection which he left to the state. He also built a small church in an old monastery 200 meters down the road, where he created his masterpiece.
These are a series of wooden sculptures depicting the life of Christ, which are installed around the walls of the church. These works took 35 years to complete.
Back on BP we head off back to Brac.
JB and Mick