We got up wrecked again around 9am and set off on the scooter - we aimed for Songserm Bay and on route found a couple of temples and Buddhas to check out on route. The colour and scale of these gleaming Buddha's is so unreal, every time we see one we are as impressed as if it were the very first time.

Fan island is beautiful with a huge Buddha perched on the top of a massive stairway - the golden decor everywhere is so beautiful, it's surreal like nothing you'd ever see at home! We continue onto another temple with a big fat Buddha and lake near a school of rowdy primary school kids. It's class - so much effort put into their temples, they really take such pride in their culture. We stop for brekkie at an English cafe on route called the Honey Pot for, you guessed it, scrambled eggs on toast 200 bhat with drinks (£4) the guy serving us is from somewhere in the north of England and explains the islands have actually really suffered in the past two years due to many factors but namely new government initiatives and the Koh Tao murders, mostly due to how the Thai law enforcement dealt with it all - numbers have declined by almost 800,000 this year alone. It is a sad tale for a great country so heavy reliant on tourism.

We trek on to find Songserm beach, after a few dodgy turns due to our not to scale map (not our fault of course), we find the beach is packed and lined with hotels blatant lack of locals all touristy with Thai looky-looky folk selling wares from kaftans to jewellery. We pay for some loungers but are a bit disappointed with how built up the area appears to be and the sea is really unlike any Thai shore we've encountered, quite dirty with waste floating in the surf - obviously, the tourist influence.

We chill out noticing a Thai massage hut right on the beach at 250 bhat each and head off for another session - they ask if we'd like aloe Vera we agree as the last massage in Koh Tao used it - it's not feeling anywhere near as good or as similar as the last session and when we pay they up the price to 400 each. We obviously question it and she said it's because we said we wanted an aloe Vera massage - Matt refuses offering 500 bhat - Jacq tells them if there's such a big price difference they should tell customers beforehand and they did not make it clear it was a completely different massage and added extra - begrudgingly she accepts 500 uttering what we are sure are naughty Thai swear words. Another thing to note - nothing is free and they won't tell you that until you need to pay…

We decide to head off to our accommodation and shower and change heading toPJs as promised. Dam has it all set up for Matt ready to go we have yellow curry, basil chilli chicken and rice and beer. Matt gets up and does a short set, it's well received and we have a cocktail while his hands recover from the rusty stringed guitar.

He does a few more tunes, we meet Teal and Ryan from Tasmania newly married and on honey moon- she's a police officer and he's a fireman - down to earth lovely couple. We have a couple more beers and Matt does a few tunes at the end dam pays him 1000 bhat which is the value of our tab for the night - delighted (Matt is buzzing) we head home chilling on the porch with Bacardi breezers on our last night of Koh Samui.