Hello. We're back in Vagator, Goa now.

We spent the last few days in Kerala at the beach. We took a walk north along the beach one afternoon and met an English couple called Paul and Karen, and spent some time with them in our last few days, mainly drinking beer! We also got to try some 'toddy' at their resort, which is some kind of fermented coconut milk. Graham tried to climb a coconut tree on the beach, with some success, and we spent much time body surfing. The waves were great for this, but the water went deep very quickly, so the waves broke close to shore, meaning you were then dragged along the sand/broken shells if you caught a good wave.

As luck would have it, Paul and Karen were heading the same way as the train station on the day we were, so we were able to share a taxi. Our reaturn train journey was a couple of hours faster (much of the track is single, so you have to keep stopping and waiting while other trains use the track!) and more relaxing as we knew what to expect. We were also sat near a college group, returning to Mumbai. The teachers spoke with us and bought us tea and shared their biscuits, so we felt very safe.

We arrived back in Goa at 5am. Our host picked us up and took our bags, but we couldn't get into the room until 11am, so we went down to the beach to watch the sun rise. It was great seeing the beach so empty and watching all the cafes and bars setting up. We had an afternoon nap, as I was eager to get out of the sun, then decided to try out one of the nightclub/party places called the Hilltop. It's an outdoor venue, with some stalls and food stands and a drinks stall. There was a DJ and some people juggling with fire etc. We did not stay long! The drinks were expensive, there was no-where to sit down, and all the music blended into one big trance song, to which many spaced out people were bobbing (not dancing!) I know I'm sounding old here, but it really wasn't for us. So, we went back to the Mango Tree bar.

We hired a moped for the whole of this week. The petrol station was out of fuel though, but no need to worry, you can buy fuel almost anywhere here: the bars, restaurants, corner shops, etc, we went to the internet cafe (the one I'm in now) and bought a litre of fuel in a n empty water bottle, which looks like cooking oil! We have been up to Arambol beach a couple of times. It's a nice beach, and there are lots of shops but not too many tourists. Before we went to Kerala, we headed south of Vagator to Baga and Calangute beaches. They were aweful, so don't book a holiday there. They were full of tourists. The beaches were packed, and there were full English breakfasts and Fish and Chips advertised everywhere. Arambol is more comercial than Vagator but nothing like these. Today on Arambol beach a strange thing happened. They suddenly started to bring all the sunbeds in, so we all had to move our things. They said there was a problem with the tourist police. We moved along to a bar we had been in before which was run by a Brit and he said they come along every so often and fine them, even if they have a permit. It all seems very corrupt and about who you know and who you can bribe.

It's great to be on the moped again. Before we left we had an encounter with 6 bulls on the road. Graham decided it was best to leave the road, as they spanned the width of it, and drive on the mud and around a tree to avoid them. Yesterday we drove to the Spice Plantation. I managed to get a crash helmet too this time! It cost us 300rupees each (about 4.30 GBP) and we got a welcome drink made with lemongrass, ginger and cardamon, along with a garland of fresh flowers each. They then took us on a tour of the spice plantation, and we watched a man rooling cigattes out of dried banana leaf, and putting some spices in them with the tabacco. We bought 10 for 20 rupees (about 27p). Then lunch was included and served on a banana leaf. After lunch we decided to stick around and watch the water sankes, fish and birds. We also went back into the plantation and saw a couple of monkeys, and a lizard feeding on a caterpillar. It was possible to pay to have an elephant ride or an elephant shower (you sit on its back and it sprays water at you). These were quite expensive though, so we thought we would save the elephant ride until we are in Rajesthan, and the shower didn't really look that pleasant!

It's much cooler here in Goa than it was in Kerala, but still I'm getting burnt! I think the suncream I bought out here is not doing its job! You have to be so careful of counterfeit products here. We've had 'Rola Cola' disguised as Cola Cola and Graham had a Kingfisher beer which tasted of almonds! Goa also seems so much more Western now we've visited other parts of India.

Another couple of things which I have found interesting, if not strange in India is firstly colour. When it comes to clothes they wear such a variety of colours it's amazing to see. There is little, if any black, and all of the shops are so multi-coloured. However, when it comes to skin colour it is a different story. I was amazed to find skin whitening products in the shops and have to be careful when buying moisturier myself, as most seem to be whitening creams! It's so strange that the beaches are full of Westeners trying to get a tan, and the locals are trying to turn their tan white. It was also pointed out to me to make note of the adverts on billboards and tv, as they are all full of light skinned people, who look more mediteranian than Indian (I'm hoping to make some money out of Graham!)

The second thing is gender. It is quite usual to see boys men holding hands and women holding hands (in friendship) but not husband and wives. We had a strange moment in Kerala when we were walking to the beach holding hands and two Indian men were walking towards us holding hands. The was an awkward pause when we looked them and they looked at us. We wondered which of us found this the modt bizarre! When on the beach, often groups of Indian men will come along and strip down to their underpants and jump into the water, or groups of men will play cricket of football, whilst the women sit in a group at a distance. Even in the temple there was this seperation. I was swimming and playing in the sea one day with Graham and Paul and I noticed a group of Indian women watching me. I couldn't help wonder if they were wishing they too could be in the water, or if they were watching me in disgust that I was wearing swimwear and not covering myself up.

I'm reading The White Tiger at the moment, and would definately recommend it if you want to learn more about India. Anyway, we're going for dinner now, so I shall say goodbye. We leave for Mumbai on Saturday evening, so we are going to enjoy our last couple of days relaxing on the beaches and in the bars before we reach the madness of Mumbai.

Maggie x