This is not the Hogwarts express: Having been kindly taken to the train station by Shaan at midnight for the next 15 hour leg of our journey down south, we anxiously awaited the arrival of the sleeper train on platform 9¾. What arrived was a giant, noisy, smelly, Slumdog Millionaire train that spluttered its way into the station and left us feeling more than apprehensive about the night ahead. We embarked and, in the pitch black, tried to locate our 3 bunk beds which we had booked in a 4 man sleeper room - or so we thought! It turned out that this request had got lost in translation and we actually found ourselves in a 7 man sardine tin with approximately 2 inches between Debs' nose on the bottom bunk and my bottom in the middle bunk. Rach was sandwiched against the ceiling with her face lodged by the air vent to the toilet - joyful, joyful! Having managed, with the help of 3 lovely guys who were in the bunks opposite, to squeeze our luggage in, we attempted to sleep through the clackety-clack, wobbly-wobble of the ancient train. Sleep was minimal, mainly due to the constant shouts of 'Biryani, biryani' as a curry breakfast was served from 7am. Suffice to say it was an experience to say the least, and none of us will ever forget our first encounter with an Eastern toilet (photo evidence to be provided)…