KARIJINI NATIONAL PARK

Tues, Wed, 23-24 July 2013

I headed off to Karijini National Park with a heavy heart, as we were worrying about our 4 year old granddaughter Orlena, who has developed a cyst on her brain as a complication of her recent cranioplasty (skull bone replacement operation.) Here we were in the middle of nowhere, too far away from Port Hedland for a quick flight home, but I was hoping things weren't going to be that bad. Orlena was in the best hands at Princess Margaret Hospital. The ride from Newman to Karijini was beautiful, especially through the rolling green hills and rich brown red breakaway country. Because of the recent unusual rains, the country is green, and the temperature sat around 25 degrees. Perfect motorcycling conditions!

Our first stop at the Dales Gorge Camping Ground at Karijini was to book in with nice friendly volunteer staff helping. I told them about our predicament with Orlena and how we could get around the lack of mobile phone service, and they were so helpful and kind, marking us for the Ranger to get us immediately if needed.

We hadn't booked into the larger Hamersley Gorge area for camping, as that is on long gravel roads, and even 4WD people had been telling us how horrid the roads were to get there, so I am not so Intrepid, much to Dave's merriment. But even he wasn't keen to go on rough gravel tracks himself. Both of us have had a very good 4WD tour of this area anyway a few years ago, but the bituminised Dale Gorge Camping area was new to us. Only a bit of flat stony gravel road here, though at first I was scared thinking it might be sloping downhill gravel riding; not my favourite. Never mind, it was easy flat stuff!

My heart sank when I first saw the little camping area we had been allocated. It was covered in sharp red stones, ouch! And the surrounding bush looked flat and dry, with hills in the background. But we soon got our Black Wolf Yurt up, Dave hammering strong iron pegs into the stony ground while I got into my usual routine of getting out our gear from the trailer, and pumping up our air mattresses from one of our bikes. The drop toilets are scattered in areas servicing several camping sites, and they smelt clean, much to my relieved surprise. There was a bucket of blue disinfectant with a big brush to help keep it clean, but no water. So we improvised a little hand washing station outside our tent for the number two jobs.

Other campers started arriving, mostly in caravans, and they seemed more equipped with all mod cons on board. Many of these campers stay at free camping sites around Australia, being more self-sufficient with their supplies. We had to be careful not to waste the 5 litre tub of water that we had set up, plus we always carry about 6 litres of water in smaller bottles anyway. Some of this water is frozen in camp kitchen freezers to be our ice supplies, and when defrosted, is our emergency water supply if ever needed. We've learned we don't have to pay for expensive bags of ice!

Our next journey was an 11km ride to the Karijini Visitor Centre. This is cleverly built in dark brown iron and is almost invisible at first, being nestled in the bush and the hills. Aboriginal locals are running this Centre and they were so kind and helpful to us about Orlena, giving me their phone to use so I could call PMH direct. One nice grandmotherly lady serving told me that my granddaughter was going to be all right, because she is such a strong little girl. How she knew this I don't know, but I believed her.

The centre has a very good interpretive display area about the Karijini area and we enjoyed browsing through this. Then it was back to our stony little tent site. As it was late afternoon, we went walking to explore. The spinifex is bright green, and we followed a winding bush path through lovely bush country with occasional white snappy gums, till suddenly we came to one of the gorges. If you were running fast you would run straight over the top and tumble far down below! Luckily there are fences and signs to warn you. The size and the beauty of the gorge took my breath away, and there was running water down below, leading to Circular Pool. We walked along the top, marvelling at the amazing red brown geology, to Dales Gorge, meeting up with other tourists doing the same. The sun was getting ready to set, and the late afternoon colours were gorgeous. (Pardon the pun!) People who were down below at the water looked like tiny little ants. You would never know there were amazing gorges in this flat country, till you come to the edge of one of them.

Later we cooked up an easy meal on the camp gas barbeque, meeting up with more delightful campers from around the world, including some Aussie families also seeing the beauties of Karijini. It was full moon, so we all watched the wondrous yellow moon rising over the flat country. Magic! And I thought of our special little Orlena, whose favourite song she loves her Nanna to sing, is about "Do you want the Moon to play with? And the stars to run away with."

Day 2.

The camp site volunteers told us there was no message for us from the Ranger, so that is good news, about little Orlena. Then we spent the rest of the day hiking around all the gorges area, visiting different sites. We both used our hiking sticks; with my gammy knee they are essential for balance. Tourists of all ages around the world were also exploring. I paddled my feet in Fern Pool watching others swim and some young European men jumping from a great height into the water. Dave estimated it was a 14 metres jump.

We filled our water bottles with natural spring water that was jetting our like a running tap from rock; this was beautiful to drink, and we marvelled at the different plants growing down at water level. The geology of this place is awesome, and I felt like I was being swallowed up by the scenery, having to cram my neck upwards to see the tops of the gorges.

I watched a little single white butterfly rise up from Circular Pool, and flutter upwards higher and higher past red rock walls to the top of the gorge, and suddenly thought of our brave little Orlena, battling all sorts of odds.

We got back to our tent site famished again, so another tuna and salad wrap was quickly consumed. Then it was a ride to the Visitor Centre to make another phone call, courtesy of the kind staff there. I found out that Orlena's brain cyst operation has been cancelled for a few days, as she has a respiratory infection, and she is now in an isolation room to get well soon. I was also told that she is fairly happy though, as she is a very stoic little girl.

Tonight we did our "Plastic Spew" meal for tea. This is the pasta, with tins of tuna, vegetables and long life milk mixed in it. Delicious and sustaining, especially with a glass of red wine. By now we were looking rather grubby, covered in fine red dirt, and I have been looking forward to a shower one day! How old settlers managed without water I don't know.

But the peace of the surrounding bush and the rising full moon made it all worthwhile. A pristine wilderness, which would have been spoiled if modern amenities were there.

Mrs Red Dirt Intrepid.