West Australian newspaper, Harvey Fresh milk and no time zones! - 20th - 23rd November

Finally back into the WA time zone and no more calculating what time it is in the West if we are about to ring home. There was no rush to head off early from Balladonia as the weather was going to be cool and the distance to Esperance was comfortable. I have always enjoyed the travel between Balladonia and Norseman with the undulating road, sweeping bends and changing countryside. In no time at all we were in Norseman where we were even able to buy a current West Australian newspaper instead of getting the home news online. Now it really feels like we are on the homeward leg. All bike clocks, watches, mobiles and GPS showing WA time.

As usual riding bikes attracts attention and we had a great chat with a Harley rider. It turned out that he lives just up the hill from us in Roleystone. After a long chat and swapping of travel stories we parted with us turning south to Esperance and he was heading north to Kalgoorlie. Having been blown away several times before by the very strong winds in Esperance we headed for a caravan park that was not right on the beach. Now for our second setup of the new tent and the experience of Port Vincent to guide us. It is a bit quicker to set up than the old one but I wanted to make a few changes. They never give strong enough Shock Cord on the guy ropes and the ones they provide tend to perish and stretch very quickly. So all main shock cords were replaced with a MUCH heavier one. Then all others were doubled up so that there were two to each spot, so if one fails there is a backup. Weather reports had shown rain coming the next day and I wanted to put an extra peg down point at the middle bottom of the front and back flaps. Experience with the old tent had shown this was excellent in rainy blowy weather. Good old Selly's All Clear came in handy to glue the new tags in place then all it needed was time to harden before the forecast rain.

Well we escaped the typical Esperance winds by our choice of Caravan Park but didn't count on the railway line that ran by the park. The first train that blasted its horn at the level crossing near our tent sent us both jumping. Not only are there a constant stream of trains but being wheat harvest time there are trucks engine braking up to the corner then working back up through the gears to move off. To top it all off they are sinking the railway line and realigning the road so there is constant noise from work vehicles. But NO wind shaking and tearing at our tent. You can't win them all!

Luckily the trains did not go all night and we awoke fresh and rested in the morning, well Trish not quite as rested as her air mattress had a slow leak all night. Being such a good sea slug she finally dragged herself out of bed despite the ever thinning mattress. With overcast skies we headed up on foot to the lookout and very much enjoyed the stunning views over the Bay of Isles. Then back into town to check out the locals. Stocked up with groceries and having chatted at length to several people we headed back to camp.

Still attracting attention as usual with our mode of travel we were in a long conversation with some retired farmers from Bremer Bay, when the first flashes of lightning and claps of thunder started. Having finished tea there was just time to wash up and scurry back to the tent before the rain set in. The new tabs on the front and back were pegged out ready for whatever the weather sent our way.

The plan was to go to Cape Le Grande National Park for the next day. Grey skies did not match with what the weather radar was showing but preparations for the outing were still in full swing. Then of course there was the guy from Darwin who came over to talk motorbikes and trailers. We really enjoy all the great people we are meeting along the way. During this conversation the first tiny drizzles of rain started. Just tiny misty fine rain. Being not so Intrepids today the Cape Le Grande trip was put on hold awaiting clearer skies.

We finally decided to forget about a drizzly ride in the rain to see more scenery, and so we visited the local Esperance Museum instead. A very interesting collection housed in a huge building, and once again the Mighty Intepids had to be told to leave after several hours as it was closing time.

Our plan for tomorrow is to ride to Bremer Bay on the Southern Ocean coastline, for a few days before heading up to Bunbury.