Mixing it with the locals now!
Early morning catch up with the 2 Turkish Captains and Louis, the Symi Immigration Officer. He controls the entry & exit of boats, and people, in and out of Greece via Symi. Another Greek with spunk, humour and passion for his Island and Greece. Born in New York to Symi parents, brought home at 14 months, well educated, travelled, mover & shaker on the island and opinionated! Greek politics and economy all solved. Then what appears to be ahead for the next Turkish elections in 2 years, and a strategic plan to avert the plot. Amazing what a coffee can achieve in the early hours!
Walk home along the harbour I am now on first name terms with a couple of the restaurateurs we have vhisited, the lady from the fish pedicure shop, elderly brothers from the green grocer shop, supermarket owner....
I hire a car, well, a Fiat Panda, and arrive home as Em and Hazel stirring for breakfast.
Once everyone rattled their dags we set off - on an island of only 58 sq kms, and one major road, not a big undertaking?
An adrenaline rush is possible at 40kms/hr, one bitumen rd with drop offs you can't see the bottom of - no wonder no insurance possible. Much of the time only one lane, with plenty of mopeds, a few cars and the one island bus trying to share it. 180 degree switch backs, rocks on the road from unsecured cutting walls, goats any and everywhere...in my element. THEN, a couple of dirt tracks deserved exploring.
The bays, mountainous terrain, stone walls, historic buildings, imagibative recycling, are spectacular. Apart from Gialos, main port and capital of Symi the island is barely invaded by tourists.
So, visited neighboring port of Pedi, few inhabitants on 2 legs, goats abundant, then south to Panormitis. On a beautiful bay and deep harbour, it is the site of the most important monastery of the island, dedicated to Archangel Michael, patron saint of the island. Over the centuries it has become a treasury of the Orthodox faith and Greek Orthodox culture. Countless miracles were performed here, (getting there has to be one). It took its current form in 1783AD when rebuilt following pirate raids. The icons are priceless, and the influence of Russian artisans is clear. We were able to visit the Catholikon, sacred heart of the monastery, with exquisite frescoe painted walls and ceiling, arriving as a mass christening and blessing was happening, all a bit much!
The place has had quite a history over the centuries, including keeping the morale ( and morals?) of the island residents ironclad, cultivating literature, and in WWII was converted to a centre for allied counter intelligence with a covert radio operation. The Abbott, Monastery steward and radio operator were all executed as a result. These days it supports the poor, certified invalids, families with many children, and actually does good work in the community.
The beautifully mosaiced pebbled yards, wall frescoes, bell tower, harbour and how isolated the place is make it worth visiting, before the religious bit.
The holy flush of Hazel's sunglasses - down the tiny hole in the toilet, and doubtless to sea, was the only miracle we experienced!
Once spiritually uplifted we tottered north again, finding a concrete track, barely the width of the fiat, which took us to Marathounta Bay, another crawl down the mountain until our ears popped. What a find! Secluded little bay, half a dozen buildings, one of them a taverna with...free sunbeds and umbrellas, and goats roaming between. Swims and the best fresh lunch at the Taverna outdoor eating area fences to
keep the goats out!
Having ticked off the southern end of the island we headed north, this time bitumen led to a concrete track then winding our way on a dirt almost goat track which ended down a steep mountain in stunning Toli Bay, and surprise! A small family run Taverna. This one is usually approached by sea according to the owners. Oh well, we love an adventure! I headed for another swim, Em, who it was noted was holding both arm rest and seat edge much of the day, and Hazel, Naviguesser, opted for a quiet coffee.
Finally return from whence we came, Giallo, harbour full of sail and power boats again, and our gorgeous home in the area of Harani.
Dinner? Car too hard, walked around the harbour then curved through a town planner's nightmare of stone alleyways between houses, up 200 odd steps, to Haritomeni Taverna. Outdoor, rooftop garden restaurant built into a stone cliff, looking over the bay, including Harani, on the other side where our house is. Octopus salad, an eggplant, chickpea and tomato dish, the best green beans ever, with red capsicum and smoky bacon poached in stock until soft, grilled meat of every type, the homemade sausage sensational!
Waddled home fully sated, checking the UK/ Italy soccer match as we wandered past open air restaurants with big screens....