Today, early start as we have to leave the camp site as soon as the gates open. We bolt through the national park to Dune 45, to climb 125m to reach the summit before the sun rises. And it is spectacular.

The desert is so vividly red, and the sky to blue, it's really amazing.

Following a late breakfast, we head further into the dune field to have a guided tour with Boesman. (Afrikaans for Bushman). I cannot speak highly enough about this guy. He used to be an insurance consultant, before growing disillusioned with his work, leaving to start operating guided tours through the Namib desert. He really knows his stuff too. Unfortunately, his licence is being revoked to allow the Namibian Wildlife Park Board to put their own muppets in his place. It really will be such a loss.

He takes us on a guided walk and points out various plants and animals that are so well adapted to live in the desert. We walk to an area known as 'dead vlei', with 300 year old dead trees. They haven't rotted away simply because nothing can live in the area to rot them. Amazing stuff.