Well our bus from Hanoi to Ninh Binh was one of the infamous open tour ticket types. Apart from departing 2 hours late, having erratic air con and the smallest leg room once the chair infront has been reclined and people sitting in the aisles on plastic chairs it was well worth the price.

We arrived in Ninh Binh at around 11pm and we were both knackered. Ellie wasn't feeling to well and we got shown to the commision hotel. The room was awful, it looked like a giraffe had been massacared then pasted on the wall, so even though Ellie wasn't feeling too great we both said "your're having a giraffe" and asked if we could get taken to another hotel. The owner arranged two motorbikes and we whizzed through the town and arrived at the Queen Mini hotel and it was great so we took it.

We decided to have a lazy day as Ellie wasn't feeling too well. We decided to take a walk into town to get some cash out and try and find something to eat. The town seemed very quiet, shops were shut and the hussle and bussle came from a small market by the river. We took a small bridge over and 3 men on a moped whizzed by us and shouted "GO HOME" and duely spat. To be honest we didn't really batter an eyelid as India had made us immune to any such thing. Vietnamise men also tend to stare alot but this too has flown in one eye and out the other. We returned back to our hotel via a man cleaning another mans ear out with a metal stick and a magnifying glass, it did look quite romantic!!! We grabbed some food and booked our two bike men to take us around for the whole day, we retired to our room and relaxed!!

We got up early had some breakfast and joined our bike guids for an epic day. They took us to Tam Coc which in the travellers bible is refered to as the Halong Bay of the paddy fields, and it didn't dissapoint. We hooked up with a rowing lady and the 2 hour trip begun, rowing through a fairly narrow part and through a tight bridge the river opened up and now we were rowing through the paddys and through Karst caves. Towering peaks around us and fellow rowers and fishermen just doing their thing!!! We also read about the hardsell from rowing vendors who give the sob story and make you buy drinks for the lady rowing only to sell it back. This time no drink was bought for our rower and I think she was a bit dissapointed we didn't give in to the pressure. We returned to land and gave her a tip and reflected on a truely awsome and surreal trip (we do advise to take an umbrella as the sun is really hot).

Next the drivers took us to a small pagoda inside a cave and also a temple carved into the hill again the senery was breathtakin. A little old man took us on a little detour and into the cave, a little scary for Ellie so we only entered a liitle way. We climbed to the temple on the hill but as the weather is really oppresive we found walking even short distances a real struggle. We sat in the compound inside the main temple and enjoyed the shade and the cool breeze.

Next we went to Hou Lu which was capital of Vietnam under the Dinh Dynasty. The drive there was exhillarating, we drove on dust tracks through paddy fields, through small villages and over running rivers and cool air running through our hair. We arrived at Hou Lu and it was lovely, comprising of the main Citidal and a green and second smaller Citidal with a climb up the side of the hill for those who wished. We walked around the Citidal and sat by the little man made lake within. It had lots of trees and flora and a stunning backdrop. We would definatly reccomend Hou Lu, as it has a charm that can't be faulted!!!

We took a pleasent trip back avoiding the Main Highway and reflected on a very enjoyable day. We would definatly reccomend the surrounding areas of Ninh Binh but not Ninh Binh as a town. The only use it had is as a base to explore. Our bus was booked for that evening so we used the internet and hung around. We had a shower and watched T.V in the hotel lobby, ate some food as its really delicious and finally our bus came, well it turned out to be another company and the people who were also hanging around piled on leaving us wondering will ours ever come. The clock went so slow and 10.30pm arrived and the owner said its here. We were so glad to be getting on even though we had to sit apart!!!

We loved Tam Coc and we loved Hou Lu but Ninh Binh seemed boring and very much like a wild west town. Don't bypass this area its a hidden Gem and we're glad we came!!!

Next stop HUE.................................