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A gorgeous sunny morning in Zebilla, and me and Nicole are off to church!
We were invited last week by our friends James and Lydia, and so we agreed to go along and see what it's like. Religion comes in so much to my work, that I thought it was about time that I got an insight from the other side, the personal side of religion here. It's everywhere and there is absolutely no hiding from it. The Muslim calls to prayer blare out four times a day and can be heard no matter where in town you are or even out in the communities. The traditionalists are often found in the communities, with lotions and potions and pots of traditional remedies and herbs! And then on Sundays there is the bellowing of church music from all over town, and people dressed up in their finest, brightest and most flamboyant gear walk, cycle or hitch a ride on a moto-king to go to church.
This time it was our turn to see what it's like, and so we were up at the crack of dawn and went around to our friends house where we found them bathing and dressing, all putting n their finery this way and that, the women adding heeled shoes (I've no idea how they walk in those around here!) and the me their smartest jackets (they really do know how to dress well here!). The house wa a hustle and bustle of people, with 5 families living under the 7 or 8 roofs that make up their compound house. Smoke was billowing out from one hut, and children squealing as the cold water of their bath woke them up for the day from another. The donkeys, chickens and even the dog were mulling about joining in the general chaos.
When everyone was ready we walked across town to the church, it was busy in town but with a really peaceful vibe about it, many people preparing for market, others making the journey to church, swathes of women and men in fresh clothes the colours of Africa against the backdrop of the sandy streets. As we arrived literally hundreds of people were pulling up on moto's and arriving on bicycles, even some fancy cars turned up. The sun was beating down but inside the church was cool and airy. A large hall decorated nicely with colourful ribbons is where everyone gathers on benches, with the pastor at the front in his shiny bright suit ready to begin the service.
It was a really fun experience, lots of singing hymns (or at least miming along if they were in Kusaal), lots of swaying to the music, clapping hands and dancing about as things got livelier and livelier. I already had a good idea of what to expect, seeing as we hear the hub-bub of the Anglican church every Sunday next door to our house, so I knew it was going to be a much more colourful and lively affair than church services at home. And boy was it! There was animated speeches, long lively prayers, and literally whole chunks of singing and dancing about, it was a lot of fun trying to just go along with the flow and not stand out too much, kind of heard when many people are already staring at you! We even had to take the microphone at one point and introduce ourselves to everyone.
After the service we went to the Sunday school, which was a bit confusing seeing as I've always associated that with children only. But this time we all sat outside, adults and children, in small groups on benches that were just about in the shade, and someone read some passages from the bible and we all had a discussion about the meaning. The whole time I had made a little friend, a small girl who wanted to sit next to me, read the bible with me and generally play with my clothes and jewellery and hair!
It was a really nice insight into the way people live here, and I can really see how big a part of their life church really is. We had already been there 3 hours when it all ended and we headed back, but many people stayed on to do church meetings and more prayers and services. I also think the church was really happy to have us, there really is no question here, you are welcome here wherever you go!!
With love from Ghana,
Em
Xx
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